Mar. 21 - Mar. 25, The Week in Patterning 14

I went into the fray with the 1869 bustle dress I showed a little of last week. This time, you get a bigger picture as to where some of these smaller pinked details go. I agitate the edges of the pinking to give a slightly frayed effect as on some extant gowns of the time. The idea is keeping this ensemble clean with simple embellishment.



Part of the magic in my work is making great leaps through time in an instant! We hop 78 years later to 1947 when Butterick originally issued this hood pattern which I now have in original size 36-38" bust and for 22" head size. I will take it to multiple sizes if there is interest, so let me know! .

Mar. 14 - Mar. 18, The Week in Patterning 13!

It's been a week mad with plaid as the 'bunny runway dress' (1869 bustle dress) continues in a light cotton shirting. To see why it is the bunny runway dress, look back at my week 2 post here!

I used the skirt yoke parts of a 1930's pattern to create the top portion of my Civil War-time (Pendleton) wool petticoat which lead to some matching plaid for a little somebun I know named Flat Fred!
Flat Fred was made by Flat Bonnie.com and he is the mascot for a rabbit rescue called Tranquility Trails Animal Sanctuary in the Scottsdale area of Phoenix. If you have been very lucky, you may have met Fred on one of his travels as he gets around to educate people about the wonderful world of rabbits and the responsible care they require.
I patterned a couple accessories for him earlier this year and I quickly fashioned a kilt for him to wear on his trip to Scotland this summer! I call this pattern the clan carrot tartan ; )

Also in plaid news, I confirmed I have just enough of the woven plaid (bottom image) from which to cut the shorter length of the 1929 coat. I didn't get to sew on it this weekend as planned, but you will start seeing that progress unfold in the next boards:


Also...my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off tomorrow, March 21!

Mar. 7 - Mar. 11, The Week in Patterning 12

Aside from grading patterns, I have been in the throes of revising pattern instructions this week. Over time, I add information and details accompanying some of the patterns as I receive orders for them. Therefore, I limited this week's board to a project I am resuming.

I cut the semi-sheer cotton dress from pattern D30-6223 some time ago and parked it for not deciding what color to use when interlining the dress. I wanted to ensure that the white figures in the print would be apparent, yet I did not want the finished dress to be 'glowing' white, overall. So, I opted to go with a bisque tone habotai. Once that yardage arrives it will be bound buttonhole-city for me and I will be sure to share that process here!
At top right, is a draping study I did with double-side silk satin ribbon in place of making fabric straps for the halter. I am happy with how I can get the ribbon to go and I intend to use it around the waist too, in lieu of a 1-1/2" belt (I am short-waisted). The scheme at bottom right gives the front of the dress where I lapped the left front panel in place, along with the sage ribbon I will use and one of the (8 total) shell buttons.
I posted this project on a quick pinterest board-the buttons do not have a source link as they are from my shop stock 11 years ago.



I worked up additional sizes in the 1945 Lounging Ensemble I mentioned previously.
It is now available to 46" bust.

Don't forget, my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off March 21!

Feb. 29 - Mar. 4, The Week in Patterning 11

The 1920 'Simple' Jacket is set to go, available here. Again, it is yet a single size pattern (although digitally drafted, not hand drafted). When I know if it is desired in multiple sizes, I will make it available as such.
The 1920's continued to play out this week with the release of these two multi-size patterns as well. You will recall them from previous storyboards:
The 1929 McCall Evening Frock to 48" bust:

and the 1929 bandeau, which one may use as a bust reducer on account of its lace-up and pleated back. It is also to 48" bust, but I recommend making a size or two less than your actual bust measurement when worn as a reducer. As always, see what your muslin practice says before cutting final goods:


In this week's board, a few more steps in developing the 1920 Simple Jacket instruction. When I work through the muslin as posted in Week 7, I sew half the garment together and leave the remaining half in pieces so I may capture it step-by-step when sewing. In the instance of patterns drafted from masters as this one, I have to create the illustrated instructions by hand for lack of any in the original pattern issue.
Also in this board, a little behind the scenes on the 1945 Lounging Ensemble I mentioned last week. This capture shows the jacket front in the two original sizes I owned in this pattern (34" and 38" bust). These two sizes have been available in one set (also with 32" and 36" bust sizes), but I am completing the multi-size range bringing it to at least 46" bust which is the bulk of my work the next week. My aim is to get it ready to ship for anyone ordering it for my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here)!

Feb. 22 - Feb. 26, The Week in Patterning 10

I had planned to put on a 1920's EvaDress Pattern Challenge this spring, but re-considered and decided on hosting another 40's challenge.
I felt I may not have enough to offer in my 1920's collection (even though I am adding three 1920's patterns this coming and the following week) and last year's 40's challenge went so well. I asked for input from FaceBook users on my patterns page where it was also confirmed that 1940's styles are so desirable as contemporary wear. Good argument, I felt.
This means I will have the multi-size 1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem ready to go Friday, March 4 as I must complete the size range on a 40's pattern requested last year. It is shown on this week's storyboard as the 1945 Simplicity Lounging Ensemble (top left). This board also gives a little preview of what is on the boards for late spring/early summer. A customer forwarded the DuBarry 5510 pattern so I may re-size it for her, which means it goes into my multi-size range and will be available to all from my site. In coming storyboards, I will happily share the process of documenting and drafting from the original to the format that arrives in your mailbox as one of my multi-size patterns.
Also shown is the 1949 Vogue 6120 pattern for another lounging ensemble. I have brought it out as one of those 'hidden gem' patterns that I haven't worked with as yet. It is part of the hidden gem series as I only have the jacket pieces and do not have the original pieces for the trousers. This means I will pair the jacket with a very similar style of trousers from another late-40's pattern to complete it. I will be making it available in multiple sizes.
I have a good start on summer pattern work which involves 50's styles, also shown in this preview:

Sharing progress on the 1920 coat pattern returns next week as well. Also in 1920's news: I will host a 20's challenge in future and keep all posted here.

EvaDress Pattern Challenge Fitting 40's!

This is a sewing pattern challenge to create men’s or women’s garments from 1940’s EvaDress patterns. Accessories (hats, bags, etc.) are not counted as an individual project, but may accompany garments in a submission. Participants may each enter more than one project for this challenge.

This one comes at the official start of spring! Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on March 21, 2016 although muslins for fitting may be created any time before the challenge kick-off date. No purchase necessary to enter, so 1940's EvaDress patterns from stash may be used! The closing date to submit projects for this challenge is 11:59p.m. EST on June 1, 2016.

The more complicated the project-an intricately embellished gown, adding accessories made from EvaDress patterns or ensembles vs. individual garments, the higher the consideration for placing as a finalist.
One top finalist will receive a $100 non-expiring gift certificate good toward the total purchase (with tax and/or shipping) of original, reproduction or multi-size patterns from EvaDress Patterns.

Depending on the number of entries, a number of finalists will be selected based on quality of construction (construction detail shots are a must), accuracy to the challenge guidelines and overall design with projects remaining devout to the original pattern style lines. This is 'Fitting 40's'. Think about how tailored garments of all sorts were during the 1940's and you guessed it, superb fit is the essential in this challenge. Well-fitting garments are highly sought after here!
I will invite a guest juror (and announce here) to review the finalists and select a top finalist.

Projects submitted to other challenges are certainly welcome, provided they fit into the challenge parameters and time frame stated here.
Log on to Facebook.com and I encourage you to join my challenge group on FaceBook in order to submit your project for consideration. The top finalist will be notified on the event wall by 11:59p.m. EST, June 3, 2016.

NOTE: By entering this challenge you agree that your submission photos/descriptions may be used in the gallery on the EvaDress web site as promotional material for EvaDress.

To enter, go here and post your main photo on the page. add subsequent high quality project photos (longest edge of photo to be 11”, photo to be at 150dpi) including front, back, side views and construction/design details in the comments section under the main photo. Be sure to write why this project was meaningful to you to submit. Also indicate which pattern was used. Also indicate which pattern was used.

Feel free to e-mail me with questions. Questions may also be posted on my Facebook (EvaDress Patterns) wall or posted by commenting on this blog post.

Feb. 15 - Feb. 19, The Week in Patterning - 9

Work continued this week on the 1920 'Simple' Jacket, but more detail on that in next week's update. It has been 20's week overall (with a touch of 1950's mixed-in). Checkout the progress on multi-sizing the 1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem:

I draft the original size pattern in my CAD program and then set to grading the pattern into more sizes using theory (and math) to get the first couple of sizes up from the original. In this case the pattern was originally for 36" bust and I graded it to 40" bust in order to give it a test in a full size paper pattern and muslin. Depending on how that size comes out, I will then grade the pattern to 46" bust and test that size at full scale as well. I was very happy how the pattern graded, so work continues!
The little paper dress at center is from printing the full size pattern pieces at 1/5 scale. I use this scale paper model of half the dress to confirm that I have taken the size of the overall pattern up or down in the appropriate locations when working up the full size tests.
I expect to have this multi-size version of the pattern ready to go by March 1.