Sunday, February 28, 2016

Feb. 22 - Feb. 26, The Week in Patterning 10

I had planned to put on a 1920's EvaDress Pattern Challenge this spring, but re-considered and decided on hosting another 40's challenge.
I felt I may not have enough to offer in my 1920's collection (even though I am adding three 1920's patterns this coming and the following week) and last year's 40's challenge went so well. I asked for input from FaceBook users on my patterns page where it was also confirmed that 1940's styles are so desirable as contemporary wear. Good argument, I felt.
This means I will have the multi-size 1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem ready to go Friday, March 4 as I must complete the size range on a 40's pattern requested last year. It is shown on this week's storyboard as the 1945 Simplicity Lounging Ensemble (top left). This board also gives a little preview of what is on the boards for late spring/early summer. A customer forwarded the DuBarry 5510 pattern so I may re-size it for her, which means it goes into my multi-size range and will be available to all from my site. In coming storyboards, I will happily share the process of documenting and drafting from the original to the format that arrives in your mailbox as one of my multi-size patterns.
Also shown is the 1949 Vogue 6120 pattern for another lounging ensemble. I have brought it out as one of those 'hidden gem' patterns that I haven't worked with as yet. It is part of the hidden gem series as I only have the jacket pieces and do not have the original pieces for the trousers. This means I will pair the jacket with a very similar style of trousers from another late-40's pattern to complete it. I will be making it available in multiple sizes.
I have a good start on summer pattern work which involves 50's styles, also shown in this preview:

Sharing progress on the 1920 coat pattern returns next week as well. Also in 1920's news: I will host a 20's challenge in future and keep all posted here.

EvaDress Pattern Challenge Fitting 40's!

This is a sewing pattern challenge to create men’s or women’s garments from 1940’s EvaDress patterns. Accessories (hats, bags, etc.) are not counted as an individual project, but may accompany garments in a submission. Participants may each enter more than one project for this challenge.

This one comes at the official start of spring! Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on March 21, 2016 although muslins for fitting may be created any time before the challenge kick-off date. No purchase necessary to enter, so 1940's EvaDress patterns from stash may be used! The closing date to submit projects for this challenge is 11:59p.m. EST on June 1, 2016.

The more complicated the project-an intricately embellished gown, adding accessories made from EvaDress patterns or ensembles vs. individual garments, the higher the consideration for placing as a finalist.
One top finalist will receive a $100 non-expiring gift certificate good toward the total purchase (with tax and/or shipping) of original, reproduction or multi-size patterns from EvaDress Patterns.

Depending on the number of entries, a number of finalists will be selected based on quality of construction (construction detail shots are a must), accuracy to the challenge guidelines and overall design with projects remaining devout to the original pattern style lines. This is 'Fitting 40's'. Think about how tailored garments of all sorts were during the 1940's and you guessed it, superb fit is the essential in this challenge. Well-fitting garments are highly sought after here!
I will invite a guest juror (and announce here) to review the finalists and select a top finalist.

Projects submitted to other challenges are certainly welcome, provided they fit into the challenge parameters and time frame stated here.
Log on to and I encourage you to join my challenge group on FaceBook in order to submit your project for consideration. The top finalist will be notified on the event wall by 11:59p.m. EST, June 3, 2016.

NOTE: By entering this challenge you agree that your submission photos/descriptions may be used in the gallery on the EvaDress web site as promotional material for EvaDress.

To enter, go here and post your main photo on the page. add subsequent high quality project photos (longest edge of photo to be 11”, photo to be at 150dpi) including front, back, side views and construction/design details in the comments section under the main photo. Be sure to write why this project was meaningful to you to submit. Also indicate which pattern was used. Also indicate which pattern was used.

Feel free to e-mail me with questions. Questions may also be posted on my Facebook (EvaDress Patterns) wall or posted by commenting on this blog post.

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Feb. 15 - Feb. 19, The Week in Patterning - 9

Work continued this week on the 1920 'Simple' Jacket, but more detail on that in next week's update. It has been 20's week overall (with a touch of 1950's mixed-in). Checkout the progress on multi-sizing the 1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem:

I draft the original size pattern in my CAD program and then set to grading the pattern into more sizes using theory (and math) to get the first couple of sizes up from the original. In this case the pattern was originally for 36" bust and I graded it to 40" bust in order to give it a test in a full size paper pattern and muslin. Depending on how that size comes out, I will then grade the pattern to 46" bust and test that size at full scale as well. I was very happy how the pattern graded, so work continues!
The little paper dress at center is from printing the full size pattern pieces at 1/5 scale. I use this scale paper model of half the dress to confirm that I have taken the size of the overall pattern up or down in the appropriate locations when working up the full size tests.
I expect to have this multi-size version of the pattern ready to go by March 1.

Sunday, February 14, 2016

Feb. 8 - Feb. 12, The Week in Patterning - 8

'Be My Valentine Blouse'. I made style 2 from pattern B50-5490 in deep red cotton sateen. I finished it up today to wear tomorrow for my sewing circle meeting, so will get pics snapped then.
This week's story board covers one detail on the blouse (more details following with a fully finished shot). Namely, sewing silk organza (pre-hand-washed to remove sizing) bias to turn the sleeve revers. Image shows under-stitching the bias in place-I love all those glorious reds!

Per last week's post, a couple screen shots of the new multi-size pattern, the Butterick 1947 Dress with Cut-Outs. One capture shows the original size 16 (34" bust) and size 40(" bust) which is the next size up in my muslin test. From there, I test again in muslin at 48" bust.
The next capture demonstrates this as one of those patterns in which I cut the lapped sleeve (for style A of pattern below) in half to grade it into other sizes and I will then put it all back together:

Hope everyone had a great Valentine's Day to start the week off!

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Feb. 1 - Feb. 5, The Week in Patterning - 7

The 1920 coat pattern is coming along in muslin. The current studies investigate the ease all around the coat that goes under the belt and how the fur collar will be attached to the coat. When the coat (originally referred to as a 'Simple Jacket') is finished, the belt is buttoned in place at front left and right sides. The belt neatly conceals the dart which shapes the waistline (which one notices in the pattern screenshot here, and as sewn in the muslin).

One will also note that the model shown in the art is much longer than the pattern I drafted and this first muslin iteration. The original instructions advise to add 25cm additional length once the pattern has been drafted from the master. I will add this additional length (10 inches) to the digital pattern once I am through all of the muslin details.
This muslin is for ensuring all pieces fit well together, to aid when I sketch construction details for the instructions I will provide with the finished pattern (hence, only one sleeve in place for these photos) and to verify the original pattern size.

Of course, this is not everything that has been happening in my pattern studio this week! I am through testing cut out details across sizes on my next multi-size pattern, the 1947 dress by Butterick. It is scheduled for issue shortly after Valentine's, so more on that in next weekend's post.