Apr. 4 - Apr. 8, The Week in Patterning 16

Been hand drafting originals this week. Namely, this sarong and jacket pattern and a DuBarry blouse and skirt. Both patterns were sent in by customers wishing to have these styles in their sizes and so the patterns may also be available from my collection in multi-size. The red arrow in next to last photo points to the location of one of the (faintly showing) perforations indicating where an elbow dart is made in the blouse 3/4-length sleeve:





As shown in the last image above, I have an unusually crumpled pattern in the next set I am drafting for this Advance tops pattern:

Feb. 22 - Feb. 26, The Week in Patterning 10

I had planned to put on a 1920's EvaDress Pattern Challenge this spring, but re-considered and decided on hosting another 40's challenge.
I felt I may not have enough to offer in my 1920's collection (even though I am adding three 1920's patterns this coming and the following week) and last year's 40's challenge went so well. I asked for input from FaceBook users on my patterns page where it was also confirmed that 1940's styles are so desirable as contemporary wear. Good argument, I felt.
This means I will have the multi-size 1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem ready to go Friday, March 4 as I must complete the size range on a 40's pattern requested last year. It is shown on this week's storyboard as the 1945 Simplicity Lounging Ensemble (top left). This board also gives a little preview of what is on the boards for late spring/early summer. A customer forwarded the DuBarry 5510 pattern so I may re-size it for her, which means it goes into my multi-size range and will be available to all from my site. In coming storyboards, I will happily share the process of documenting and drafting from the original to the format that arrives in your mailbox as one of my multi-size patterns.
Also shown is the 1949 Vogue 6120 pattern for another lounging ensemble. I have brought it out as one of those 'hidden gem' patterns that I haven't worked with as yet. It is part of the hidden gem series as I only have the jacket pieces and do not have the original pieces for the trousers. This means I will pair the jacket with a very similar style of trousers from another late-40's pattern to complete it. I will be making it available in multiple sizes.
I have a good start on summer pattern work which involves 50's styles, also shown in this preview:

Sharing progress on the 1920 coat pattern returns next week as well. Also in 1920's news: I will host a 20's challenge in future and keep all posted here.

Feb. 1 - Feb. 5, The Week in Patterning - 7

The 1920 coat pattern is coming along in muslin. The current studies investigate the ease all around the coat that goes under the belt and how the fur collar will be attached to the coat. When the coat (originally referred to as a 'Simple Jacket') is finished, the belt is buttoned in place at front left and right sides. The belt neatly conceals the dart which shapes the waistline (which one notices in the pattern screenshot here, and as sewn in the muslin).

One will also note that the model shown in the art is much longer than the pattern I drafted and this first muslin iteration. The original instructions advise to add 25cm additional length once the pattern has been drafted from the master. I will add this additional length (10 inches) to the digital pattern once I am through all of the muslin details.
This muslin is for ensuring all pieces fit well together, to aid when I sketch construction details for the instructions I will provide with the finished pattern (hence, only one sleeve in place for these photos) and to verify the original pattern size.



Of course, this is not everything that has been happening in my pattern studio this week! I am through testing cut out details across sizes on my next multi-size pattern, the 1947 dress by Butterick. It is scheduled for issue shortly after Valentine's, so more on that in next weekend's post.

Jan. 18 - Jan. 22, The Week in Patterning - 5

I have a few of the 'new' vintage patterns posted for sale here! They are in good sizes ranging from 34 to 42 bust. I have counted them all up and checked the condition of each, So my work will soon begin to add about six patterns (two of which shown in last week's board) to my multi-size line over time.
This storyboard features two of the originals available (at top) and two new multi-size patterns-one for the 1928 frock with jabot (now 32" to 48" bust, with more sizes coming) and the re-worked 1938 McCall blouses. The blouses are now 32" to 48" bust also with more sizes coming. See last week's board for the silk matelasse sample of this blouse. It is marvelously detailed!

As well, you see the winner of the EvaDress Thrifty Thirties Pattern Challenge which closed the middle of this month. Milli did a wonderfully-fitting wool version of the 1933 Katharine Hepburn Ensemble from Butterick Starred Pattern 5156. She gets to shop $150 in EvaDress Patterns with the certificate she won!
As always, I appreciate everyone's participation in this winter challenge. I will post the projects in my online gallery shortly.
I have two challenges lined up for 2016, so stay tuned for details come this spring.

On another challenge note, EvaDress Patterns is sponsoring the Red Dress Contest at PatternReview.com. First place will be awarded a $100 non-expiring EvaDress Pattern gift certificate and the second place will receive a $50 certificate.

Jan. 11 - Jan. 15, The week in Patterning - 4

First in this week's storyboard, 'new' vintage patterns arrived this week! They are from a generous customer going through a family member's life-long belongings. These are just two and note they (as are more from this collection) are in sizes ranging 38 to 44 bust. I will post more about the complete set of originals as I continue to check each one. So far, I am sure I will add each one of these to my multi-size line.
This storyboard also includes a step back to the late-1930's as I complete the revisions to this blouse pattern I originally issued in sizes 32 to 42 bust. In addition to revising this pattern, I am adding sizes 44 and 46 bust. It will be ready for release late this coming week! Below left, is a silk matelasse sample I sewed from this pattern with the short, pleated sleeve.

Also in week 1, I gave a finishing detail of the cotton bobbinet Vogue 1935 Tucked Blouse (worn over the low-backed 1932 slip). It is now complete with vintage 'West Germany' crystal buttons and all!

Jan. 4 - Jan. 8, The week in Patterning - 3

I completed the 1860 waist from EvaDress/Barrington House Polonaise pattern.  I look forward to obtaining photos of me wearing it to Sharlot Hall Museum Living History program yesterday for you all to see! Look up the first week's post for the in-progress and intro to this project.
Also in week 1, I gave a finishing detail of the cotton bobbinet Vogue 1935 Tucked Blouse (worn over the low-backed 1932 slip). It is now complete with vintage 'West Germany' crystal buttons and all!
In more patterns to come shortly, I am ready to grade a 1929 Bust Reducer into multiple sizes! Here you see it below right (original size is 48" bust).
At lower left is a 'simple' French 1920 coat I am about to digitize and will make available in multi-size as well.

Dec. 28 – Jan. 1, The week in Patterning – 2

I have 7 yards of sheer cotton to use with last summer’s 1869 bustle dress pattern.
I stretched it out from my studio into the kitchen where my pair of rabbits were playing for the day. This meant I had inadvertently created a bunny runway when I thought I was quickly assessing how the pattern would take the plaid!

The studies at lower right are options I am throwing around depending on how much of the sheer I have for such a finish. Part of this week's patterning has been to digitize, print and revise the pieces as well as add seam allowances to each and create cutting layout diagrams for them. The option at top is the basque originally prescribed as part of the bustle dress ensemble, yet the two below are offered as separate, more formal finishes. I will offer them as such once they are in multiple sizes.

Lastly, I managed to uncover yet another 'Hidden Gem'. I began issuing those patterns that somehow slipped through the cracks over the years, or needed a little something to complete it. Not sure how I overlooked this one as I went through some possibilities in '15, so it will be up in the next day!

Dec. 21 – Dec. 24, The Week in Patterning - 1

This is a new section featuring what I have been up to by-the-week for lack of posting much online. I gleaned inspiration for posting more often this way from Ann Wood Handmade. Each entry will be posted in storyboard fashion (click images for larger version). Please enjoy and Happiest of New Years' to you!

I consider a couple of current sewing projects as a lead-up to this Christmas. I machine-tucked the bobbinet blouse December 2014 when first experimenting with circa 1935 Vogue’s pattern 6969 (which had been a gift to me earlier in the year). This week was devoted to wrapping seams, securing the MANY thread ends off each pleat and roll-hemming edges.
The blouse came from the drapes off the bobbinet gown I created from circa 1935 Vogue’s Couturier design 371 in 2011. The cotton bobbinet is perfect for this blouse! I will post the complete blouse the week of Jan. 4.
This blouse pattern is currently available in its original size (34" bust), yet I will work the blouse up in multiple sizes between other pattern deadlines the first half of 2016.



The second project is a sheer waist (also in progress) I created from our 1860 Polonaise Pattern released in 2013. The waist is meant to go under my Swiss waist I created last December (shown over a borrowed blouse). The completed waist will be shared the week of Jan. 11.
I wear the waist(s) for Living History interpretation at our Sharlot Hall Museum. January is devoted to handwork for me, which means I take the Spanish Jacket and continue to add to the soutache motif!
I received a request for the Swiss Waist in pattern form and I have a great deal to offer this year, so I will see how I do this year as far as tucking it in between pattern deadlines!

Patterns - Summer Update

Been away for a while-I am guilty of having nearly vanished under pattern deadlines and I commenced sewing for this year's Make it with Wool Competition.  That said, it means I will be back on here posting a great deal as I share details and construction methods on the four-piece ensemble I am submitting this year.  Three of the pieces are from EvaDress Patterns and one piece actually comes from Vogue Knitting so stay tuned!

First bringing things up to speed, I launched the German Beach Ensemble pattern in July.  The pieces are the casual, wide-leg trousers with turn-ups, halter top and optional jacket:

I just finished everything for Vogue's 1951 Kimono Blouse in multi-size to start shipping this Friday!


Here is a little preview of what is soon to come in multi-size patterns!
I posted a vote on Face Book so others could decide which of the three following dresses would be next in multiple sizes.  Voters chose this Vogue Special Design for a day or evening dress with skirt godet and kimono bodice with high shaped skirt waistline:
First runner-up is the 1945 Butterick dress with smocked openings at the shoulder. It (as will the following 2 patterns) will be available in their original sizes until I bring them to a range of sizes next winter and spring.:
Lastly, another Vogue Special Design with optional panier effect at the hip and draped fullness across bust:
A customer sent this unique pattern to make available in multiple sizes out of such generosity.  A 1937 blouse with overwaist (connected to the skirt) and tie:

I still have some surprise patterns coming out before the beginning of fall which I will post here!

Changing Sight Lines from Original Vogue to Vogue Re-Issue (and where EvaDress falls into the matter)

13 years ago, I documented my original Vogue Halter Gown pattern #9180 and being that it is a vintage pattern in public domain, I made reproductions of it available for purchase.  Not long after, Vogue came out with the 'same' design in their Vintage Vogue series.

For only having it in one size (and a small one at that for 32" bust, 24" waist and 34" hip), I pulled it from my online collection of reproduced patterns as it seemed unmarketable at the time (this was well before I was multi-sizing patterns).

I say the Vogue re-issue is 'same' design as the original 1957 Vogue because, well it is the same-it has the same style lines, yet the lines of each piece between the two patterns are different.  I refer to this as changing sight lines in patterns.  I had a couple other original Vintage Vogue patterns that Vogue also ran off in their series and I observed there to be differences in pattern pieces between the two as well.
My photos demonstrate a printed draft of my original superimposed on Vogue's re-issue (I sold my original long ago-having no idea there would be an eventual study for which the tissue pattern would become handy) to reflect the differences in pattern piece shapes.  I do not have the re-issued version in the 32" bust size, but a clear idea is had where the lines are very different despite the jump down in size when comparing.

When comparing this exact trace from the vintage original to the re-issued pattern, there is more shaping in each piece; the original version was more tailored than Vogue's re-issue with one exception.

The halter piece of Vogue's re-issue is shaped at the underarm.  Perhaps to provide better clearance under the arm vs. the 1957 version having a straight line along this edge to provide more coverage at the underarm-a changed sight line, nonetheless (click images for a larger view):

Here, the more scooped-out midriff of the original against the re-issued version:

A little closer look is had-also note that originally, only half the midriff pattern was given.  The re-issued Vogue gives the entire (symmetrical) piece:

Similar observation in the bodice back piece.  Also, the original back was placed with center back on the fold of goods as the dress closure was applied under the left arm.  The contemporary method is to give a back seam where the zipper is applied-yet another form of changing sight lines:


Pattern companies not only did not renew copyright on many of what we would now consider vintage patterns throughout their histories, they didn't even keep an archive of such patterns.  In order to produce a vintage re-issue, the companies have relied on private owners to step forward with their vintage originals.
I know people who have sent their original vintage patterns to Vogue from which Vogue made additions to their Vintage Vogue line, yet in doing so, I understand Vogue starts from square one when putting such patterns into production.  They are not making use of the original pattern pieces in the way one would think for the fact that they are 'changing the sight lines' of the pattern to produce the vintage style.

The bottom line?  It is going to be a split opinion between users as far as which version suits best.  From a sewing standpoint, some figures may benefit from the overall boxier, squared version of Vogue's re-issue than the more curved and shapely nature of the original version.  From a perception standpoint, I hear that sewers expected the lines to remain the exact same from the original 1957 pattern to those of Vogue's re-issue effort.  I was surprised when I made that discovery first hand so long ago that as I picked up a 'Vintage Vogue' here and there I understood I was buying today's interpretation of the design and not the original 'pattern sight lines'!

La Petite Mode EvaDress

La Petite Mode EvaDress is a newly begun series of 1/3 scale models sewn from EvaDress Patterns.  The models demonstrate viable high fashion which was originally available to the home sewer of early- to mid-20th century via commercial patterns.
I gleaned inspiration from Le Théâtre de la Mode.  As well, The House of Dior drew inspiration from the same exhibit in creating Le Petit Théâtre Dior.
La Petite Mode EvaDress models are based on 1/3 size from vintage patterns which fit 36" bust, 30" waist and 39" hip.


From Vogue's 1944 Frock pattern 8046:






From Vogue's 1944 Dinner Suit pattern 3162:








More models will be added over time, so stay tuned to this show!

D40-5810, the 1943 Dress in additional sizes & More Originals Posted!

The 1943 Dress is now available in additional sizes to 46 bust:

I have posted original vintage patterns in sizes 18 (36 bust) and 20 (38 bust) starting on this page:

More Originals and the Gallery Grows!

I recently found some original vintage patterns a few of which are in larger sizes such as:



Also, more gallery pages will keep popping up.  I have many more finished customer projects to share!

New Multi-Size (and Original) Patterns Posted, 'Wrapping Up' the end of the year!

I issued an update to my e-mail members today to let everyone know I have a couple new patterns ready in multi-size.  They are:

The 1929 Evening Wrap by McCall


and the 1943 Wrap Dress


Right now, the wrap dress is in a limited set of sizes due to the fact it was part of a custom grading order, but next year is about adding sizes in multi-size patterns that are already available, so stay tuned!
I have also re-done the original vintage pattern pages.  When one clicks on an original vintage pattern image, a .pdf will load of both front and back of the envelope in large detail.  Be advised, they will take time to load on that account.
Here are a few examples of the recently added originals:





I am still in process of up-grading the pattern pages throughout the site and it will take time to complete, but things are looking really great with the improved graphics and format.

I'll have more updates coming about exciting things you can expect for the New year, but let's not all wish 2012 away too quickly.  I wish everyone well as we come up on the holiday(s) season, cheers!

Patterns Update

I posted this extra cute blouse and apron pattern as the new multi-size: In addition, I posted several original patterns, among them are patterns I picked from Michelle at OldPatterns.com.  Here is a little example of what she has in the 1920's/30's McCall originals:
.

Michelle is the first one I ever bought vintage patterns from when I started in the late '90's. It was really great to work with her again this year and I recommend you take a look at what she may have for you! Also have a look at a blog post about her Here.

Spreading the Joy!

Roberta (yet another generous customer) at Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul, MN sent original patterns to me to avail to everyone. These are just three of the lot I received yesterday:


(I KNOW of whom everyone thinks when seeing the model at right on this one!)


A little coat dress style from 1953.



I LOVE the wide midriff with the sash over it! Also, it is very interesting that only one skirt gore piece is given as the same shape makes it all the way around.