Friday, May 29, 2015

Latest Patterns - Multi-Size 1934 Palazzo Ensemble and 1928 Hats with a Summer Pattern Preview

Originally by Hollywood Pattern Co., this two-piece ensemble is now in multiple sizes for 32 to 46 bust:

The tuck-in blouse has a convertible neck; or may remain un-tucked with tie-sash, patch breast pocket and long or short sleeves.  The trousers are pleated below the fitted waist-band.

The 1928 Set of 7 Hats pattern fits 22-inch head size with instructions on how to re-size the hat patterns:

Just the tip of the iceberg here in patterns coming out this summer.  They are the 1949 Vogue Kimono Blouse, the 1929 Evening Frock (June 1, in sizes 14 to 40) and the 1940's men's Semi-Hacking Jacket.  I have a few pattern surprises coming summer season as well!

Sunday, May 17, 2015

La Petite Mode EvaDress

La Petite Mode EvaDress is a newly begun series of 1/3 scale models sewn from EvaDress Patterns.  The models demonstrate viable high fashion which was originally available to the home sewer of early- to mid-20th century via commercial patterns.
I gleaned inspiration from Le Théâtre de la Mode.  As well, The House of Dior drew inspiration from the same exhibit in creating Le Petit Théâtre Dior.
La Petite Mode EvaDress models are based on 1/3 size from vintage patterns which fit 36" bust, 30" waist and 39" hip.

From Vogue's 1944 Frock pattern 8046:

From Vogue's 1944 Dinner Suit pattern 3162:

More models will be added over time, so stay tuned to this show!

Friday, May 8, 2015

Construction Details - E30-5918, 1931 Evening Gown with Diagonal Seams

I have had questions about the way the strap on this gown is applied.  Essentially, the strap is smocked with three lines of shirring before the back bodice strap portion is twisted, brought under the top shoulder edge of A, and stitched as a lapped seam. This is not exactly something that contemporary sewers are used to doing, so I worked a quick muslin version showing the steps:

Shows A, the Bodice Front with top edge turned under 3/8". The pen marks indicate where the first two rows of running stitches will be made:

Wrong side of A with top edge turned under 3/8":

I modified this example a bit by running the first row of long stitches very close to fold of turned edge. Then I ran subsequent lines of long stitches 3/8" apart. The large O is the match point '2' between the front and back strap.

Example shows size 40 bust, so the lines of gathers are drawn to 1-7/8" per chart given in the instructions. A third row of gathering stitched is then sewn in.

Gathered shoulder edge of B, Bodice Back. Flat bias finishes both neck and armseye edges of B and as for A:

The shoulder strap of B is twisted two times toward the neck and the turned edge of 'A' laps over 'B' with match points in place. Top-stitch through all layers. Shows full shirred effect in 3 rows of stitching the pattern originally calls for:

Additionally, this pattern was originally made for the petite figure (note half sizes given in yardage chart) and labeled as a 'half size' pattern.  Regular pattern sizes were made for women of a standard height of 5'7" to 5'8" whereas half size patterns were for those 5'3" to 5'4" tall.  The difference between this and the women's regular size is, according to The McCall Pattern Co. in that 3-4" difference as follows:
1" shorter in the waist
2-3" shorter in the skirt
1" shorter in a full-length sleeve
1-2" larger around the hip
1" larger around the waistline