Thursday, October 31, 2013

Help with the 1929 Ensemble Skirt

I have revised the instructions for this ensemble skirt to include the following.  Feel free to download the pdf here:

Thursday, October 24, 2013

New Multi-Size Pattern

This is one I hadn't previously announced. It is the 1939 McCall Evening Gown in sizes 14 to 42:

The finished model (size 14) is in silk charmeuse:

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

1929 Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets: Sewing Godets

I have all my loose threads secured onto the wrong side of each coat piece.  So before I stitch the coat seams together, I will put the godets on first.
I applied a stay as a technique I like to use when sewing fabric with a turned corner  I also use this method when stitching a lapped seam onto another fabric.  I prefer to use silk organza as it compacts so well when folded and pressed.  It really makes for a clean and non-bulky application.

I cut a piece of scrap organza to fit over the points at the top of each godet (click image for a larger view):

I turned my machine stitch length down 10 per inch so the stitches will be fine enough to make the inside corner secure and crisp.  Using the seam allowance given (1/2"), stitch the organza to the right side of the godet along the top edge where the top corners of the godet will be sewn to the coat.  I did the stitches in scrap thread of different colors so they show up easily (click image for a larger view):

Clip through both layers to the inside corner at marking, trim near seam allowance, turn and press the seam allowances toward the organza facing (click image for a larger view):

Shows the organza facing turned and pressed to the wrong side of godet (click image for a larger view):

Shows the organza facing turned and pressed from the right side of godet (click image for a larger view):

The godets are now ready to be stitched to the coat!

Detail of making small stitches at the top of the godet where the edge is made with the organza facing. Be sure to catch the godet only in the organza side of the seam taking care not to grab the wool side.(click image for a larger view):

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

1929 Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets: This is a great day to do competition sewing!

This is the first of a series I will post when working up my 2013 Make It With Wool submission.

I am sewing the 1929 German Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets in melton.

I will line it with a contrasting silk brocade with a deco pattern in it.

First photo shows the back cut and marked with tailor tacks.  I recommend marking the pin tuck lines at 4 to 5 inch intervals.

As I fold the melton to make each pin tuck, I am being very careful to keep each thread marking in the edge as I fold all the length of the back.  This is a 16-18 oz. 70% wool/mohair/cashmere with 30% nylon blend, so the stability of the weave is great for making really crisp tucks.  The arrow shows the start point for sewing the pin tucks.  This is also the location of the stitching detail photo below.

The Gütermann silk thread makes for beautiful stitching!  Just a few loose threads to sew in.

As for the coat front:

Stitch the bust dart from the wrong side of fabric:

After stitching the bust dart, get the machine needle just on the point of the dart (on the right side of fabric) so the line of stitching falls below it.

Stitching the tuck just above the bust dart on the coat right front. Here, I have lifted the feed dog and I am about to make my pivot for stitching the tuck down the length of the coat.

Here, I turned the fabric before setting the feed dog down and stitching that vertical tuck.

Have yet to sew threads to the wrong side (note I left my thread tail a little above that bust dart, I will take that extra stitch out so it will not pucker when I secure my threads). Also have yet to press this set of tucks.

Thursday, October 10, 2013

EvaDress Web Site Update

I have added links (as highlighted below) to the bottoms of decade pages of my web site to assist in finding multi-size patterns respectively. You will see that the men's pages are similarly arranged:

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

New Price on the EvaDress Print Catalogue

New price on the EvaDress print catalogue is now $10USD.  The new international rate is $15USD.  Both prices include shipping.