This is the first of a series I will post when working up my 2013 Make It With Wool submission.
I am sewing the 1929 German Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets in melton.
I will line it with a contrasting silk brocade with a deco pattern in it.
First photo shows the back cut and marked with tailor tacks. I recommend marking the pin tuck lines at 4 to 5 inch intervals.
As I fold the melton to make each pin tuck, I am being very careful to keep each thread marking in the edge as I fold all the length of the back. This is a 16-18 oz. 70% wool/mohair/cashmere with 30% nylon blend, so the stability of the weave is great for making really crisp tucks. The arrow shows the start point for sewing the pin tucks. This is also the location of the stitching detail photo below.
The Gütermann silk thread makes for beautiful stitching! Just a few loose threads to sew in.
As for the coat front:
Stitch the bust dart from the wrong side of fabric:
After stitching the bust dart, get the machine needle just on the point of the dart (on the right side of fabric) so the line of stitching falls below it.
Stitching the tuck just above the bust dart on the coat right front.
Here, I have lifted the feed dog and I am about to make my pivot for stitching the tuck down the length of the coat.
Here, I turned the fabric before setting the feed dog down and stitching that vertical tuck.
Have yet to sew threads to the wrong side (note I left my thread tail a little above that bust dart, I will take that extra stitch out so it will not pucker when I secure my threads). Also have yet to press this set of tucks.