Sunday, January 27, 2008

Possibility of the Perforation

As part of my Architectural graphics coursework, I read about the perforated cards used in the 19th century containing digital information (via perforations) to control textile looms. Of course in relation to that course, the bridge was being built to the use of digital information in computer systems, but I claim it also applies to the original tissue patterns dating as late as the mid-1950's.

If we think about it, these perforated markings on the pattern allow us to control where we make an indentation in the fabric surface via tailor tacks, chalk or carbon tracing. The perforations also enable us to do aligning functions with the patterns when placing the pattern with respect to the grain of fabric or when placing a pocket or other application accurately on the fabric design.
Paper sewing patterns are a special part of developable surface exploration. I know so many of you have told me you are as excited as I am about the 2-D paper becoming a 3-D garment via darts, folds, tucks, seams, etc.

The perforated markings which create the dart at the keyhole neckline in the pattern of a blouse I started last night.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

On the Boards - Look what's coming!

Customer Melissa sent me some some killer patterns that had originally been her grandmother's. Among them is a 1933 McCall (top-most image) I have been looking for over the last few years! So, it will be among the first I will make available in multi-size format.
E-mailing your preferences about what you want of these first will help very much!

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Grading the Raglan Sleeve

Elle requested that I share the process of grading the raglan sleeve down in size on pattern B30-4851

so here is...

Taking the raglan sleeve in is quite simple since there is normally a dart at the shoulder line rather than the traditional sleeve seam in the top of this sleeve style.

I simply shorten the length of this dart by cutting through a horizontal line I draft on the pattern between the middle set of perforations and the single perforation. I take it in 1/4" for each size down I wish to take the pattern as indicated here:

This pattern is unique in that it has a raglan sleeve that does not extend all the way to the neckline, so there is a bit of standard shoulder length to consider. If the adjustment above is not enough for the desired effect, one can also draft a vertical line from the shoulder seam to the bustline and cut along this line, taking it in 1/4" at the shoulder seam end to nothing at the bustline for each size the pattern is to be brought down: