Saturday, March 26, 2016

Mar. 21 - Mar. 25, The Week in Patterning 14

I went into the fray with the 1869 bustle dress I showed a little of last week. This time, you get a bigger picture as to where some of these smaller pinked details go. I agitate the edges of the pinking to give a slightly frayed effect as on some extant gowns of the time. The idea is keeping this ensemble clean with simple embellishment.

Part of the magic in my work is making great leaps through time in an instant! We hop 78 years later to 1947 when Butterick originally issued this hood pattern which I now have in original size 36-38" bust and for 22" head size. I will take it to multiple sizes if there is interest, so let me know! .

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Mar. 14 - Mar. 18, The Week in Patterning 13!

It's been a week mad with plaid as the 'bunny runway dress' (1869 bustle dress) continues in a light cotton shirting. To see why it is the bunny runway dress, look back at my week 2 post here!

I used the skirt yoke parts of a 1930's pattern to create the top portion of my Civil War-time (Pendleton) wool petticoat which lead to some matching plaid for a little somebun I know named Flat Fred!
Flat Fred was made by Flat and he is the mascot for a rabbit rescue called Tranquility Trails Animal Sanctuary in the Scottsdale area of Phoenix. If you have been very lucky, you may have met Fred on one of his travels as he gets around to educate people about the wonderful world of rabbits and the responsible care they require.
I patterned a couple accessories for him earlier this year and I quickly fashioned a kilt for him to wear on his trip to Scotland this summer! I call this pattern the clan carrot tartan ; )

Also in plaid news, I confirmed I have just enough of the woven plaid (bottom image) from which to cut the shorter length of the 1929 coat. I didn't get to sew on it this weekend as planned, but you will start seeing that progress unfold in the next boards: Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off tomorrow, March 21!

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Mar. 7 - Mar. 11, The Week in Patterning 12

Aside from grading patterns, I have been in the throes of revising pattern instructions this week. Over time, I add information and details accompanying some of the patterns as I receive orders for them. Therefore, I limited this week's board to a project I am resuming.

I cut the semi-sheer cotton dress from pattern D30-6223 some time ago and parked it for not deciding what color to use when interlining the dress. I wanted to ensure that the white figures in the print would be apparent, yet I did not want the finished dress to be 'glowing' white, overall. So, I opted to go with a bisque tone habotai. Once that yardage arrives it will be bound buttonhole-city for me and I will be sure to share that process here!
At top right, is a draping study I did with double-side silk satin ribbon in place of making fabric straps for the halter. I am happy with how I can get the ribbon to go and I intend to use it around the waist too, in lieu of a 1-1/2" belt (I am short-waisted). The scheme at bottom right gives the front of the dress where I lapped the left front panel in place, along with the sage ribbon I will use and one of the (8 total) shell buttons.
I posted this project on a quick pinterest board-the buttons do not have a source link as they are from my shop stock 11 years ago.

I worked up additional sizes in the 1945 Lounging Ensemble I mentioned previously.
It is now available to 46" bust.

Don't forget, my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off March 21!

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Feb. 29 - Mar. 4, The Week in Patterning 11

The 1920 'Simple' Jacket is set to go, available here. Again, it is yet a single size pattern (although digitally drafted, not hand drafted). When I know if it is desired in multiple sizes, I will make it available as such.
The 1920's continued to play out this week with the release of these two multi-size patterns as well. You will recall them from previous storyboards:
The 1929 McCall Evening Frock to 48" bust:

and the 1929 bandeau, which one may use as a bust reducer on account of its lace-up and pleated back. It is also to 48" bust, but I recommend making a size or two less than your actual bust measurement when worn as a reducer. As always, see what your muslin practice says before cutting final goods:

In this week's board, a few more steps in developing the 1920 Simple Jacket instruction. When I work through the muslin as posted in Week 7, I sew half the garment together and leave the remaining half in pieces so I may capture it step-by-step when sewing. In the instance of patterns drafted from masters as this one, I have to create the illustrated instructions by hand for lack of any in the original pattern issue.
Also in this board, a little behind the scenes on the 1945 Lounging Ensemble I mentioned last week. This capture shows the jacket front in the two original sizes I owned in this pattern (34" and 38" bust). These two sizes have been available in one set (also with 32" and 36" bust sizes), but I am completing the multi-size range bringing it to at least 46" bust which is the bulk of my work the next week. My aim is to get it ready to ship for anyone ordering it for my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here)!