Jan. 18 - Jan. 22, The Week in Patterning - 5

I have a few of the 'new' vintage patterns posted for sale here! They are in good sizes ranging from 34 to 42 bust. I have counted them all up and checked the condition of each, So my work will soon begin to add about six patterns (two of which shown in last week's board) to my multi-size line over time.
This storyboard features two of the originals available (at top) and two new multi-size patterns-one for the 1928 frock with jabot (now 32" to 48" bust, with more sizes coming) and the re-worked 1938 McCall blouses. The blouses are now 32" to 48" bust also with more sizes coming. See last week's board for the silk matelasse sample of this blouse. It is marvelously detailed!

As well, you see the winner of the EvaDress Thrifty Thirties Pattern Challenge which closed the middle of this month. Milli did a wonderfully-fitting wool version of the 1933 Katharine Hepburn Ensemble from Butterick Starred Pattern 5156. She gets to shop $150 in EvaDress Patterns with the certificate she won!
As always, I appreciate everyone's participation in this winter challenge. I will post the projects in my online gallery shortly.
I have two challenges lined up for 2016, so stay tuned for details come this spring.

On another challenge note, EvaDress Patterns is sponsoring the Red Dress Contest at PatternReview.com. First place will be awarded a $100 non-expiring EvaDress Pattern gift certificate and the second place will receive a $50 certificate.

Jan. 11 - Jan. 15, The week in Patterning - 4

First in this week's storyboard, 'new' vintage patterns arrived this week! They are from a generous customer going through a family member's life-long belongings. These are just two and note they (as are more from this collection) are in sizes ranging 38 to 44 bust. I will post more about the complete set of originals as I continue to check each one. So far, I am sure I will add each one of these to my multi-size line.
This storyboard also includes a step back to the late-1930's as I complete the revisions to this blouse pattern I originally issued in sizes 32 to 42 bust. In addition to revising this pattern, I am adding sizes 44 and 46 bust. It will be ready for release late this coming week! Below left, is a silk matelasse sample I sewed from this pattern with the short, pleated sleeve.

Also in week 1, I gave a finishing detail of the cotton bobbinet Vogue 1935 Tucked Blouse (worn over the low-backed 1932 slip). It is now complete with vintage 'West Germany' crystal buttons and all!

Construction Details - E30-5918, 1931 Evening Gown with Diagonal Seams

I have had questions about the way the strap on this gown is applied.  Essentially, the strap is smocked with three lines of shirring before the back bodice strap portion is twisted, brought under the top shoulder edge of A, and stitched as a lapped seam. This is not exactly something that contemporary sewers are used to doing, so I worked a quick muslin version showing the steps:


Shows A, the Bodice Front with top edge turned under 3/8". The pen marks indicate where the first two rows of running stitches will be made:

Wrong side of A with top edge turned under 3/8":

I modified this example a bit by running the first row of long stitches very close to fold of turned edge. Then I ran subsequent lines of long stitches 3/8" apart. The large O is the match point '2' between the front and back strap.

Example shows size 40 bust, so the lines of gathers are drawn to 1-7/8" per chart given in the instructions. A third row of gathering stitched is then sewn in.

Gathered shoulder edge of B, Bodice Back. Flat bias finishes both neck and armseye edges of B and as for A:

The shoulder strap of B is twisted two times toward the neck and the turned edge of 'A' laps over 'B' with match points in place. Top-stitch through all layers. Shows full shirred effect in 3 rows of stitching the pattern originally calls for:

Additionally, this pattern was originally made for the petite figure (note half sizes given in yardage chart) and labeled as a 'half size' pattern.  Regular pattern sizes were made for women of a standard height of 5'7" to 5'8" whereas half size patterns were for those 5'3" to 5'4" tall.  The difference between this and the women's regular size is, according to The McCall Pattern Co. in that 3-4" difference as follows:
1" shorter in the waist
2-3" shorter in the skirt
1" shorter in a full-length sleeve
1-2" larger around the hip
1" larger around the waistline

A Few Pattern Revisions, re: Size sets

I have started work breaking some multi-size patterns into sets A and B. While these are now available in separate sheets for each size set, be sure to check each style for the exact range of measurements included in each set:

Correction in Pattern E30-6983

I revised the yardage chart and cutting layout to correctly reflect the fact that the bodice stays are cut in fabric to match the skirt versus the bodice as previously indicated. Please download the new pdf pages by clicking on the chart below: .
NOTE: The fabric amounts have not changed.

Error in pattern D40-1484, the 1943 Wrap Dress

I just completed a revision on two pieces from the D40-1484 wrap dress pattern which will ship today.
The revision only affects orders filled August 12 to August 29, 2013. Those who ordered during that time frame will receive the revised pieces:



Red line indicates the edge of Blouse right Front 'B' that I offset 1/8" since original issue, also offset position of double notches 1/2" away from CF. Added CF markings offset 1/8" (each size) from original issue. The entire Over Skirt Front 'L' was revised as I had incorrect layers turned on at the time of original issue.

Two patterns now available in size sets

Hoping to alleviate confusion between so many markings, I broke these two patterns each into two size groups, the Men's 1934 Wide Leg Trousers and the 1930's Dinner Gown with Cape:

Additional Sizes in the 1943 Wrap Dress Pattern

I now have this pattern to 46" bust.
Please keep in mind my cut off for Tuesday shipping is Monday at noon, EST and Thursday at noon, EST for Friday shipping.

As I 'Face-Booked', it is fair game for this year's EvaDress pattern contest.

Revision to Pattern C30-4972

I made corrections to this pattern:



If you purchased this pattern before March 12, 2012, please e-mail me  to the effect and I will send you a revised sheet at no additional charge.

I also added four sizes up in this pattern. You may order it from the link above.

Revision in Pattern Acc30-1887

I was working through style B of this hat pattern the other night to realize I made an error in the instructions.

.

So, if you have this pattern, you can download the two corrected pages here.

You will soon see my version of the hat in black silk double-sided satin. I interlined each piece with silk organza and lined the inside with silk habotai. It goes together very quickly and easily!

It will take part in my wearing the Simplicity 1938 frock as shown below in progress:

Will have good photos posted this summer of the complete get-up ; ), but may have some snapshots available before too long....

Error in pattern B30-1465

Today, I discovered an error in pattern B30-1465, the multi-size blouses.


I failed to put the size key on each piece of the paper pattern, so please be advised that the pattern is for sizes 16-46. Here is a  link  to the size key so you may print it.

Also, on the long sleeve band (piece 'M'), I noted to cut sizes 14 to 42 on the same line. It should read 'Cut sizes 16 to 42 on this line'.

I am sorry for this oversight in my final printing of the pattern. Trying not to do that again!

Error in the 1934 Men's Trousers

It came to my attention that there is a crucial flaw in the 1934 men's trouser pattern I issued in multi-size late last summer.

I have corrected the error and mocked the trousers up again to confirm that there is no longer a problem.

A customer e-mailed to let me know about the discrepancy in the length of the trouser front rise (crotch) versus that of the trouser back.  I realized I had used a file drafted from the original pattern which had this error in it instead of the corrected version of the original pattern-a grievous error on my part, indeed!

To correct your pattern, the hook of the back crotch needs to be dropped 1-1/2" from its current position while maintaining the location of the inner leg seam:



To make amends to those who are not confident in making this change to the pattern themselves, I am happy to send the corrected trouser back and the trouser front pieces to those who request them of me via e-mail.