I Have the Most Interesting Customers in the World

Last night, I was thinking about an order I filled for a French-Canadian Soprano Opera singer who just completed a European tour. You can see Karina here.   I cannot wait to see what her seamstress makes of the patterns!

Therefore, I wish to start a new small segment on my web site to spotlight customers and the projects they have created from my patterns. I invite everyone who wishes to be written up to submit photos of their favorite projects from EvaDress patterns along with a small blurb and personal information regarding the sewing approach, if desired.

The first project I intend to post for the month of April is this ribbed silk version of the Katharine Hepburn jacket pattern (size group C) made by a customer in Nevada:





I love how the ribbed silk drapes so well for this style and the strong directionality the rib communicates the cut of each piece. Makes a most stunning 2-1/2D style, indeed!

My 2009 outlook on the patterns

2009 is the year I am focusing on 2-1/2 dimensional styles. This means I am going to work with patterns featuring fabric elements that leap off the garment, yet do not cease to be a part of it. Darts, pleats and tucks are all valid dimensional effects in fabric, but this study goes further. For example, this favorite blouse has a jabot which is in one with the blouse front. Only its facing is a separately applied piece:



Here is a German frock pattern I am offering early 2009:



While the jabot is a separately applied piece (sewn to the back neck edge), I resolved to add it under this 2-1/2 D theme due to the amount of volume the jabot adds to the front of the frock, yet it is tucked under the folded fabric belt. More to come!

One whoes beauty equaled what she offered Us...

It was brought to my attention last week that sadly, Charlotte of VintageCat.com is no longer with us. If you look up her former home page link, there is a message to the effect that she lost a long-time battle with cancer just recently.

I have had the joy of working with her only a few times over the last 10 years and I had no idea she was struggling with the multitude of difficulties and pain cancer brings.

Just this October, I wrote a great deal of material I intend to publish about vintage patterns and I made reference to her wonderful business ethic as well as information on how to source fabulous vintage patterns at RetroCat. With the draft in progress, I will leave all mention of her business in place due to the fact that I feel people should certainly keep her in mind.

I feel that the most beautiful things are those which do not last a great long time. A fine character such as hers is as beautiful yet fleeting as the rare patterns she availed to all of us.

Official presentation of Option Explicit Gown

I retrieved my laser-etched gown from Knowlton School of Architecture a couple weeks ago and was finally able to shoot it with the mulberry leaves I picked in July with which to display it! When in motion, this laser-etched silk/metal organza rustles not unlike an array of delicately drying mulberry leaves the silk worm is fed to produce the filament eventually spun into silk.

Of course, this means that since the gown above is no longer on display, my only dress form is open for other finished examples, so below you see the 1930 evening gown in iris sueded charmeuse!

On the Boards Fall, 2008 Update

Below is a 'favorite' Claire McCardell dress pattern launching in multi-size next month:


I also have this men's 1934 windbreaker in size 40 chest up.

PatternReview.com Lined Jacket Contest Entry

Here is my lined jacket entry from original McCall 7531 (version B):











Here is the detail of buttonhole integrated in seam between collar/jacket and collar/facing:



Per instructions taken from 1935 DuBarry trench coat:





Stitch at neck edge matching oo and easing ‘F’ to coat; leave right end of seam open between oo in ‘A’ for buttonhole. Turn up back seam between oo; clip and crease seam open in front of o.
Join Front Facing ‘E’ to opposite edge of ‘F’ on inside as far as o at shoulder easing ‘F’ to ‘E’.




Leave right seam open between oo in ‘E’ for buttonhole. Clip and crease seams open. Fold ‘F’ in half and place ‘E’ on outside of ‘A’.

Want the fabric waistband, not the bulk...

An addendum to the 'invisble facing' concept:

I like to have the 'out' side of many of my skirt/trouser waistbands match the fabric of the finished garment. It is not always desirable to have the same fabric on the inside face of the waistband due to bulk issues particularly when using wool flannel, wool crepe or in this case burn-out embroidered silk organza.
Sooooo, I customarily cut the 'outside' width of my waistbands in self fabric, adding about 1/2" to 5/8" seam allowance along the top edge and I cut the other half adding the same amount of seam allowance in a facing-appropriate fabric, say scrap silk taffeta, shantung doupioni, or in the case, a plain silk organza to match the hue dominant in the finished fabric (burn-out embroidered silk organza).
The result this time is a wonderfully stable, yet 'non-intrusive' inside waistband face.





How's that for 'gorey' sewing details? I have plenty more where this came from :o)!