Official presentation of Option Explicit Gown

I retrieved my laser-etched gown from Knowlton School of Architecture a couple weeks ago and was finally able to shoot it with the mulberry leaves I picked in July with which to display it! When in motion, this laser-etched silk/metal organza rustles not unlike an array of delicately drying mulberry leaves the silk worm is fed to produce the filament eventually spun into silk.

Of course, this means that since the gown above is no longer on display, my only dress form is open for other finished examples, so below you see the 1930 evening gown in iris sueded charmeuse!

On the Boards Fall, 2008 Update

Below is a 'favorite' Claire McCardell dress pattern launching in multi-size next month:


I also have this men's 1934 windbreaker in size 40 chest up.

PatternReview.com Lined Jacket Contest Entry

Here is my lined jacket entry from original McCall 7531 (version B):











Here is the detail of buttonhole integrated in seam between collar/jacket and collar/facing:



Per instructions taken from 1935 DuBarry trench coat:





Stitch at neck edge matching oo and easing ‘F’ to coat; leave right end of seam open between oo in ‘A’ for buttonhole. Turn up back seam between oo; clip and crease seam open in front of o.
Join Front Facing ‘E’ to opposite edge of ‘F’ on inside as far as o at shoulder easing ‘F’ to ‘E’.




Leave right seam open between oo in ‘E’ for buttonhole. Clip and crease seams open. Fold ‘F’ in half and place ‘E’ on outside of ‘A’.

Want the fabric waistband, not the bulk...

An addendum to the 'invisble facing' concept:

I like to have the 'out' side of many of my skirt/trouser waistbands match the fabric of the finished garment. It is not always desirable to have the same fabric on the inside face of the waistband due to bulk issues particularly when using wool flannel, wool crepe or in this case burn-out embroidered silk organza.
Sooooo, I customarily cut the 'outside' width of my waistbands in self fabric, adding about 1/2" to 5/8" seam allowance along the top edge and I cut the other half adding the same amount of seam allowance in a facing-appropriate fabric, say scrap silk taffeta, shantung doupioni, or in the case, a plain silk organza to match the hue dominant in the finished fabric (burn-out embroidered silk organza).
The result this time is a wonderfully stable, yet 'non-intrusive' inside waistband face.





How's that for 'gorey' sewing details? I have plenty more where this came from :o)!

'Invisible' Facing

I am a fan of the facing. I like Vogue patterns for their facing tendencies. When working with a vintage Vogue pattern dating to the 40's, I made an error when cutting the lining for the front of this halter top (view A at left):


So, I created an 'invisible facing' for my rescue! This is not part of the original pattern that was to be faced, It was to be narrowly hemmed. When I cut my front lining piece too short to make it close enough to the bottom edge of the finished fabric front, I cut a silk organza facing from the bodice front pattern and stitched it to the bottom edge of the fabric front, turned and pressed it into place:



Turned the top edge of the organza in and catch-stitched it to the narrowly hemmed lining which comes down over it:

Ahh, the dangers of sorting through a stash!

I am sure we can all relate to the snowball effect sorting through any stash can bring on. I leafed through a stash of ephemera I have been collecting over the years during my hunts for vintage patterns to find these dandies:






I delved into the box for German 1920's masters from which to draft some patterns to offer everyone later this year when I was broadsided by these 1950's styles and I started fantasizing about drafting patterns for them to make some pieces for my own professional wardrobe. Love the cheetah-print-looking skirt and now I am on the hunt for faille...but, also devoutly drafting 20's patterns :o)!

Vintage Fabric ReDux

I found a 1-2/3-yard piece of 36" wide circa 1950’s(?) 60's(?) Waverly interior fabric at a yard sale six years ago. Along its selvage is printed: 'A Waverly Bonded Glosheen'. It is a slightly polished, good grade of cotton and I sat on it, wondering how best to maximie it for whatever use I could eventually come up with.

A skirt! (I can keep sitting on it, yet have it use, ha!) To make the most use of it, I cut the piece in half and sewed the selvages as the side seams. I narrowly hemmed the bottom edge and folded a hem at the top nearly equivalent to the width of a waistband. I then fit at the top according to my waist measurement by creating box-pleats at the right and left sides of the front and back.
To get the skirt on and off, I left the back left box-pleat un-stitched and applied white hooks and eyes to each side of the box-pleat fold thus, making the waistband longer for me to get over the hips and yet close down with the hooks to fit at the waist.
Over timie, my daughter and I add Swarovski flatbacks here and there, plus a little hand embroidery to augment the French cafe print.
Makes for the Optimal Picnic Skirt-and is always a hit at every barbeque to which I wear it!


Front of the skirt:


Detail at the hooked box-pleat: