Tuesday, November 12, 2013

1929 Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets: Hem Bias and Pin Tuck the Lining

Whenever possible, I like to keep bulk to a minimum in my sewing.  So, I am finishing my coat hem with a bias self-facing (click on images for larger view):
I am using fusible interfacing in just the hem of the coat.

A 2" hem is given in the coat pattern, yet I shortened the pattern below the waistline so I can use just a 1/2" allowance at the bottom to turn the bias facing I will sew.  I cut fusible interfacing on the bias about 3" wide so I can place it with the contours of the bottom edge of the coat.  I also pieced it so it goes behind the seam allowances of the coat.

Here, the bias interfacing is pieced and overlapped 1/2":

The coat hem is now ready to be turned and pressed to fell the bias to the wrong side of the coat.  On that note, I move to the inside of the coat.  I will pin tuck and assemble the brocade lining the same as for the coat.

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