Exercise from ASDP Session on 11.12.11

There was one major exercise we did not cover. The objective in looking at the design below was to address the challenge of augmenting a smaller bust line with transverse gathers:


The solution exercise regarded using rayon seam tape to stay multiple gathered edges which are then joined with un-gathered sections of the over-bodice. The muslin study below is demonstrated in 1/2 scale.

My digital camera died, so this is as far into the process I can share until I have a camera in hand again.

I first ran a hand-basted stitch along the (5/16") seam allowance to join the pieces in each of the two sets:


The 1/4" wide white paper strip demonstrates the rayon seam tape. Per the original instructions, 1. Stitch BODICE RIGHT FRONT to BODICE RIGHT SIDE FRONT below o at corner as illustrated, matching VV-V, clipping side front to o. Press open.

(In these two images each 1/4" paper strip is cut the length that each piece of seam tape should be as they correspond to the straight edges along which gathers will be eased when joining pieces. The gathered stitch along the left curved edge in the top image is for drawing into gathers in the next step):



As the other image above corresponds to the original instruction illustrations:
2. Gather BODICE RIGHT SIDE FRONT above seam, to large O.


Shows the hand basting stitch drawn to a gathered edge on the bodice left side front:


3. Turn under seam allowance on BODICE RIGHT FRONT from seam to O and pin over BODICE RIGHT SIDE FRONT, clipping to O. Slip-stitch securely.


4. Stitch BODICE LEFT FRONT to BODICE LEFT SIDE FRONT, below o at corner, matching VVV, clipping side front. Press open.


Shows The taped and gathered edge of bodice left side front joined in the seam with bodice left front:


5. Gather left side front from seam to first point, as illustrated.

6. Pin left side front to BODICE LEFT FRONT, matching VV, adjusting gathers. Baste and stitch. Press seam downward.


Shows the gathered and taped edge of bodice right side front before it is eased and stitched to the bodice right front:


7. Clip BODICE RIGHT FRONT to large O, stitch to BODICE LEFT FRONT below oo, matching O’s and V.

8. Gather BODICE LEFT SIDE FRONT above seam at oo to the triangle symbol as illustrated.





Detail shot of the gathered bust:

1930 Leaf Frock in the final stretch!

Have some lining of the flounces to do in order to conceal the white satin organza interfacing:



Waiting for a little more ribbon to arrive so I may finish the straps and add the last layer of leaves to the back panel. Adding that last layer of leaves to the back panel will really give it the volume that the original art portrays and it's a wrap!

Teaching in Phoenix for ASDP this Saturday

I am doing a session focusing on flattering figure challenges using vintage details with transverse lines.

Examples of the exercises I will go over in class using 1/2 scale patterns to hand sew on muslin are:

Breaking up a wide hip with a godet which is reinforced at the skirt waistline:


Reducing a large bustline using right angle seams faced with silk organza:


Increasing the shoulder line using a dropped sleeve and cut-away shoulder with a pointer on giving the cut-away shoulder a wider facing:


Augmenting a small bustline with horizontal gathers using rayon seam tape stays:


Play-down a protruding stomach with asymmetric lines using basting as a guide for sewing lapped seams:


Augment a smaller hip using transverse gathers. The tip here is to stay the skirt gathers before joining to the skirt yoke:


All are welcome to register, contact Phyllis Bergo of Quail Trail Designs, 480.812.9762