Sunday, April 17, 2016

Apr. 11 - Apr. 15, The Week in Patterning 17

Well, I haven't been sewing laps in the studio, but I have been sewing lappets! Not unlike little flower petals, these lappets stand along the neck opening on the 1869 bustle dress.
Once pinked, they are a finishing touch on the waist of this ensemble. You see a quick remedy I put into the front neckline as I forgot to pinch out extra length in my pattern before cutting the waist front to prevent gaping.
You can do this with many V-neck garments before finishing. I eased 5/8" of length out of each side of the front neckline by cutting a narrow piece of twill tape 6-3/8" long. Leaving the lappets pinned on, I eased the entire 7" length of neckline down to the twill which will then be stitched in place when I attach the finishing bias facing strip:

As in the board below, hand-drafting continues through tomorrow. Last week, I addressed a particularly damaged pattern to bring it up to snuff for multi-sizing. It is the front section for the cropped halter in the Advance pattern below (View 1):

No comments: