Sunday, June 27, 2010

Contemporary Vintage

Just looking back a bit here, the September 2009 Vogue issue caught my eye for the spread of designer-wear inspired by design lines of 1942.
I found this piece interesting for what I believe it reinforces good, vintage details in contemporary wear.

I like that the basic lines of the jackets are so easy to see in the garments as compared to the two pattern fronts below. The soft details the designers added look easy to add for nice embellishment.






The 40's never go out of style...

Friday, June 4, 2010

Pattern Sizes - Vintage vs. Contemporary

A really good suggestion was brought to me during my lecture on vintage patterns last night at Treadle Yard Goods.

Edith Gazzuolo suggested I include a chart on my web site for comparison between vintage pattern and contemporary pattern sizing standards.

I hope it will reduce confusion when choosing vintage patterns for those who are only familiar with contemporary patterns.

A brief example would be to say that a vintage size 18 pattern closest corresponds with a contemporary pattern size 14 to fit a 36" bust, although the remaining dimensions vary between the waist and hip. When comparing vintage and contemporary pattern standards, I recommend purchasing a vintage pattern as close to the bust size as possible since the remaining adjustments will be less difficult.

Until I can post this information on the site, I have included it here:

Women's Vintage Patterns pre-1958
(hip measurement is taken 7" below the natural waistline)

size 12=30" bust, 25-26" waist, 33" hip
size 14=32" bust, 26" waist, 35" hip
size 16=34" bust, 28" waist, 37" hip
size 18=36" bust, 30" waist, 39" hip
size 20=38" bust, 32" waist, 41" hip
size 40=40" bust, 34" waist, 43" hip
size 42=42" bust, 36" waist, 45" hip
size 44=44" bust, 38" waist, 47-1/2" hip
size 46=46" bust, 40" waist, 50" hip
size 48=48" bust, 42" waist, 53" hip


Misses's Contemporary Patterns according to Vogue Patterns
(hip measurement is taken 7-9" or, at fullest part of the body below natural waistline)
NOTE: Size '8' has been ommitted due to the fact that there is no women's vintage size to correspond with a 31-1/2" bust. Such sizes were issued as a junior standard in the vintage pattern realm, not a women's standard.

size 6=30-1/2" bust, 23" waist, 32-1/2" hip
size 8=(see note above)
size 10=32-1/2" bust, 25" waist, 34-1/2" hip
size 12=34" bust, 26-1/2" waist, 36" hip
size 14=36" bust, 28" waist, 38" hip
size 16=38" bust, 30" waist, 40" hip
size 18=40" bust, 32" waist, 42" hip
size 20=42" bust, 34" waist, 44" hip
size 22=44" bust, 37" waist, 46" hip
size 24=46" bust, 39" waist, 48" hip
size 26=48" bust, 41-1/2" waist, 50" hip

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Trunk Show/Grading Patterns at Treadle UPDATE

The confirmed date and time for my trunk show at Treadle Yard Goods in Minneapolis is Thursday, June 3 from 6-8 p.m. I will give a lecture to introduce vintage patterns and have the trunk show going with sample garments cut from many of my multi and single size patterns. The fee for that session is $10/person. Please call Treadle Yard Goods 651.698.9690 to make arrangements for attendance that evening.

Also, the grading vintage patterns session for Friday, June 4 will be 6-9 p.m. Spots are limited and reservations with the $35 fee is needed for attendance. Since the evening session is nearly full, we have added an afternoon session running from 1-4 p.m.

I recommend attendants bring a vintage pattern with which they are currently working or are considering working so they can follow along in the re-sizing instruction. I look forward to seeing you in Minnesota!

Sunday, May 23, 2010

I Am Teaching at 17th Annual ASDP Conference

I am teaching a 'Working with Vintage Patterns' session at the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals Educational Conference Saturday, October 16, 2010 from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30p.m. It will be held at the Crowne Plaza Hotel & Exhibition Center, Meadowlands in Secaucus, New Jersey.

I plan to spend the first part of the session introducing vintage patterns, some of their characteristics and demonstrate how vintage patterns can serve as a unique tool for contemporary couture.

Most of the session will be devoted to student hands-on in learning how to grade complicated pattern pieces using a sample pattern which is part of the kit for this class. We will also move into the first muslin iteration to learn working with marking techniques attributed to vintage patterns and for testing the first paper pattern grading effort.

My session is open to all levels of sewing ability, although the pattern work will be geared toward the more advanced sewing professional.

If one is planning to attend this event, I encourage bringing an original vintage pattern with which I may help for more individual advice. I recommend the user first trace the original onto pattern trace paper and bring the original along with the copy, if possible.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Trunk Show/Teaching in Minneapolis

The confirmed date and time for my trunk show at Treadle Yard Goods in Minneapolis is Thursday, June 3 from 6-8 p.m. I will give a lecture to introduce vintage patterns and have the trunk show going with sample garments cut from many of my multi and single size patterns. The fee for that session is $10/person. Please call Treadle Yard Goods 651.698.9690 to make arrangements for attendance that evening.

Also, the grading vintage patterns session for Friday, June 4 will be 6-9 p.m. Spots are limited and reservations with the $35 fee is needed for attendance. Since the evening session is nearly full, we have added an afternoon session running from 1-4 p.m.

I recommend attendants bring a vintage pattern with which they are currently working or are considering working so they can follow along in the re-sizing instruction. I look forward to seeing you in Minnesota!

Friday, April 16, 2010

Artwear Symposium and Trunk Show in Minnesota

I am attending a couple of Saturday seminars at this year's Artwear Symposium   at the Textile Center in Minneapolis this June.

I am currently working out details with staff at Treadle Yard Goods to put on a patterns trunk show that same weekend. I have many sample garments made from my patterns that will be on display at the store in advance (date as to when they will be ready to view not yet determined, but stay tuned).

I will really like everyone's input as to what they would like to see in the trunk show opportunity as far as instruction I can give to help with your vintage pattern projects.

I have offered to make the times I will be available there as open help sessions for anyone needing assistance or questions answered about any sewing project they are doing with a vintage pattern (the pattern does not have to be from my business).

Looking forward to seeing you in Minnesota!

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Error in pattern B30-1465

Today, I discovered an error in pattern B30-1465, the multi-size blouses.


I failed to put the size key on each piece of the paper pattern, so please be advised that the pattern is for sizes 16-46. Here is a  link  to the size key so you may print it.

Also, on the long sleeve band (piece 'M'), I noted to cut sizes 14 to 42 on the same line. It should read 'Cut sizes 16 to 42 on this line'.

I am sorry for this oversight in my final printing of the pattern. Trying not to do that again!