tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61540866722452992152024-03-08T02:25:16.445-07:00EvaDressRetro Sews - The "Good Eats" of Vintage Garment MakingEvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.comBlogger197125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-25371165620368103672016-11-20T22:16:00.000-07:002016-11-20T22:16:23.903-07:00Click <a href=https://evadress-patterns.myshopify.com/blogs/news/nov-14-nov-18-the-week-in-patterning-49-flirty-50s-pattern-challenge-finalist> here </a> for the latest post re: The finalist in the EvaDress Flirty 50's Pattern Challenge!
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-69505519908058070662016-08-21T22:58:00.001-07:002022-11-05T14:56:45.678-07:00EvaDress Pattern Challenge - Flirty 50's!<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/patmontblog50s16150.jpg?11259991458808653352><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/patmontblog50s1672.jpg?14011409667963294848></a>
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Something about 50's styles seems oh, so flirty! Bare shoulders with a halter or even strapless style, sashes, full skirts or hip-hugging drapes and even the men's dashing cut of a waistcoat. This is a sewing pattern challenge to create men’s or women’s garments from 1950’s EvaDress patterns. Accessories (hats, bags, etc.) are not counted as an individual project, but may accompany garments in a submission. Participants may each enter more than one project for this challenge.
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Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on September 15, 2016 although muslins for fitting may be created any time before the challenge kick-off date.
No purchase necessary to enter, so 1950's EvaDress patterns from stash may be used! The closing date to submit projects for this challenge is 11:59p.m. EST on November 15, 2016.
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The more complicated the project, the higher the consideration for placing as a finalist.
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Depending on the number of entries, a few finalists will be selected based on quality of construction (construction detail shots are a must), accuracy to the challenge guidelines and overall design with projects remaining devout to the original pattern style lines.
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One top finalist will receive a $100 non-expiring gift certificate good toward the <b>total</b> purchase (with tax and/or shipping) of original, reproduction or multi-size patterns from <a href=http://EvaDress.com>EvaDress Patterns</a>.
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Once again, Emily Stringham of <a href=http://www.vintagevisions27.blogspot.com/>Emily's Vintage Visions</a> will join the challenge as a guest juror!
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Projects submitted to other challenges are welcome, provided they fit into the challenge parameters and time frame stated here. I encourage you to join my challenge group on FaceBook in order to submit your project for consideration. The top finalist will be notified on the event wall by 11:59p.m., November 18, 2016.
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Log on to Facebook.com and I encourage you to join my <a href=https://www.facebook.com/groups/EvaDressPatternChallenge/>challenge group on FaceBook </a> in order to submit your project for consideration.
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NOTE: By entering this challenge you agree that your submission photos/descriptions may be used in the gallery on the EvaDress web site as promotional material for EvaDress.
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Once you are a part of the group, you can enter <a href=https://www.facebook.com/events/169852083443151/?notif_t=plan_user_joined¬if_id=1471843855867856> here </a> and post your main photo on the page. Add subsequent high quality project photos (longest edge of photo to be 11” and at least 150dpi) including front, back, side views and construction/design details in the comments section under the main photo. Be sure to write what pattern you used and what is so flirty about the design! If you do not use Facebook, I am happy to post your submission via your e-mail containing photos and description as outlined above.
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Feel free to <a href=mailto:theevadress@gmail.com>e-mail me</a> with questions. Questions may also be posted here, on my Facebook (EvaDress Patterns) wall or posted by commenting on my blogspot.
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This challenge is void where prohibited.
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-31715050785288355652016-04-24T22:15:00.002-07:002016-08-04T13:53:40.142-07:00Apr. 18 - Apr. 22, The Week in Patterning 18It's been a whirlwind week around here.
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First, in sewing from EvaDress Patterns news, the 1935 summer dress continued as I completed bound buttonhole facings. A quick product plug here: I show one of the back facing seam allowances 'taped' with <a href=http://gailpatrice.com/products-page/interfacing/denifuse-2/> deni fuse sheer interfacing by Gail Patrice</a>. The interfacing comes pre-cut 3-yards long at 60" wide in black or white. I created my own straight 3/8" stay tape from my white deni fuse in order to stabilize the back edges of the dress.
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You also see how the belt is attached to the dress. In lieu of cutting a fabric belt, I chose double-face silk satin ribbon which I will likely tie at center front. The belt attachment is unique and I think throws some sewers. Each end of the belt is sewn into the facing/back edge of both right and left sides, yet the right belt section threads through a vertical buttonhole created in the back left side. The belt from the right back side is also folded away from the back edge and top-stitched along its center (not yet done in photo) for about an inch in order to accommodate the way the back left side laps the back right side:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week18_c331f29d-473b-4fce-b2a6-90cd2fdf2648.jpg?7021250695703601301><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week18.jpg?307244976459033304></a>
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Lastly, I will launch my new web site the end of this coming week-yay! The site will have features everyone expects in search capabilities and multiple payment methods. This also means by May 8, you will see my blog post entries from the new web site homepage (as indicated below, can't miss that BIG red arrow)! I am not sure yet how I will handle all the entries I have made to date from this address, but when I have that figured, I will fill you in.
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<img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/neww72.jpg?5170027751475017464">
...and I am still wearing my kitchen apron from dinner prep!EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-29901734166669519082016-04-17T21:50:00.000-07:002016-05-06T00:29:42.008-07:00Apr. 11 - Apr. 15, The Week in Patterning 17Well, I haven't been sewing laps in the studio, but I have been sewing lappets! Not unlike little flower petals, these lappets stand along the neck opening on the 1869 bustle dress.
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Once pinked, they are a finishing touch on the waist of this ensemble. You see a quick remedy I put into the front neckline as I forgot to pinch out extra length in my pattern before cutting the waist front to prevent gaping.
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You can do this with many V-neck garments before finishing. I eased 5/8" of length out of each side of the front neckline by cutting a narrow piece of twill tape 6-3/8" long. Leaving the lappets pinned on, I eased the entire 7" length of neckline down to the twill which will then be stitched in place when I attach the finishing bias facing strip:
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week17.jpg><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week17.jpg?5170027751475017464></a>
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As in the board below, hand-drafting continues through tomorrow. Last week, I addressed a particularly damaged pattern to bring it up to snuff for multi-sizing. It is the front section for the cropped halter in the Advance pattern below (View 1):
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<img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/5521sm.jpg?6580952191685834254">
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week17b.jpg><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week17b.jpg?5170027751475017464"></a>EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-92075366041478072312016-04-10T22:46:00.001-07:002016-07-30T17:32:51.359-07:00Apr. 4 - Apr. 8, The Week in Patterning 16Been hand drafting originals this week. Namely, this sarong and jacket pattern and a DuBarry blouse and skirt. Both patterns were sent in by customers wishing to have these styles in their sizes and so the patterns may also be available from my collection in multi-size. The red arrow in next to last photo points to the location of one of the (faintly showing) perforations indicating where an elbow dart is made in the blouse 3/4-length sleeve:
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<img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/6056sm.jpg?17181029467817947409">
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<img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/5510sm_46f4659c-3020-4bc7-94bf-0199b98b0d5e.jpg?17181029467817947409">
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week16_59ffcb80-e329-4ef2-ba7f-2526cf10103c.jpg?9941624233494898727><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week16.jpg?6580952191685834254></a>
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As shown in the last image above, I have an unusually crumpled pattern in the next set I am drafting for this Advance tops pattern:
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<img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/5521sm_6e351318-d864-4640-9057-80a48d487273.jpg?11119180204625938762">EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-91137227801236985002016-04-03T21:36:00.000-07:002016-07-30T17:30:07.042-07:00Mar. 28 - Apr. 1, The Week in Patterning 15This board highlights bound buttonhole details I put to use on my 1935 Beach Dress:
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<a href=https://evadress.com/products/1935-beach-dress-d30-6223><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/6223sm.jpg?4589527492966710293></a>
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I outlined my photos with text and illustrations from Dressmaking Made Easy, by The McCall Pattern Company, 1946. I have a couple additional tips I recommend when working with the binding of each buttonhole you are welcome to access via pdf <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/BBH.pdf>here.</a> Click image to get larger views:
<a href=http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week15_32f76352-ce93-4fa5-8b6a-63fc464270d5.jpg?13426764755431875855><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week15_c85298a4-39f0-4274-95ad-461fa1a43ca0.jpg?785902293881796564"></a>
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More 40's and 50's multi-size patterns are yet on their way this year to include these two! My work continued on each this week, expecting to have the 50's halter/bodice pattern tested and ready to go by April's end. It will be some time before I have the junior size blouses pattern tested out and ready for issue, but I will announce here:
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<img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/4320sm.jpg?13426764755431875855>
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<img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/4704.jpg?785902293881796564>
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This week's work will involve hand-drafting more originals to add to my multi-size line later this and into next year. As well, you get the hint by now that my work is not linear as I must toggle between different projects. Expect to see more progress on my 1869 sheer dress and the 1935 beach dress! EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-88646899606195858682016-03-26T21:03:00.000-07:002016-07-30T17:35:25.553-07:00Mar. 21 - Mar. 25, The Week in Patterning 14 I went into the fray with the 1869 bustle dress I showed a little of last week. This time, you get a bigger picture as to where some of these smaller pinked details go. I agitate the edges of the pinking to give a slightly frayed effect as on some extant gowns of the time. The idea is keeping this ensemble clean with simple embellishment.
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week14_ce6af5c2-6f6a-4100-8290-5e4666e4db9c.jpg?8164786990011318540><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week14_4b32ff47-cbae-41d5-84a5-6fb5d808f8ca.jpg?5519567565087582241></a>
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Part of the magic in my work is making great leaps through time in an instant! We hop 78 years later to 1947 when Butterick originally issued this hood pattern which I now have in original size 36-38" bust and for 22" head size. I will take it to multiple sizes if there is interest, so let me know!
<a href=https://evadress.com/products/1947-set-of-hoods-acc40-4054><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/4054sm.jpg?330023238011067307></a>.
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-24428555495652625712016-03-20T20:21:00.000-07:002016-07-30T17:37:50.230-07:00Mar. 14 - Mar. 18, The Week in Patterning 13!It's been a week mad with plaid as the 'bunny runway dress' (1869 bustle dress) continues in a light cotton shirting. To see why it is the bunny runway dress, look back at my week 2 post <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2016/01/dec-28-jan-1-week-in-patterning-2.html>here</a>!
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I used the skirt yoke parts of a 1930's pattern to create the top portion of my Civil War-time (Pendleton) wool petticoat which lead to some matching plaid for a little somebun I know named Flat Fred!
<br>Flat Fred was made by <a href=http://flatbonnie.com/>Flat Bonnie.com</a> and he is the mascot for a rabbit rescue called <a href=http://www.tranquilitytrail.org/>Tranquility Trails Animal Sanctuary</a> in the Scottsdale area of Phoenix. If you have been very lucky, you may have met Fred on one of his travels as he gets around to educate people about the wonderful world of rabbits and the responsible care they require.
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I patterned a couple accessories for him earlier this year and I quickly fashioned a kilt for him to wear on his trip to Scotland this summer! I call this pattern the clan carrot tartan ; )
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Also in plaid news, I confirmed I have just enough of the woven plaid (bottom image) from which to cut the shorter length of <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/5955coat.html>the 1929 coat</a>. I didn't get to sew on it this weekend as planned, but you will start seeing that progress unfold in the next boards:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week13_60268042-d490-4f8c-9444-f78d3c5661e7.jpg?513594218518190291><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week13_c41ea5bf-ba1a-4057-8183-f69ab1e2a6d4.jpg?13653202940251206750></a>
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Also...my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2016/02/evadress-pattern-challenge-fitting-40s.html> here</a>) kicks off tomorrow, March 21!EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-63036241932889536362016-03-13T20:38:00.000-07:002016-07-30T17:41:13.286-07:00Mar. 7 - Mar. 11, The Week in Patterning 12Aside from grading patterns, I have been in the throes of revising pattern instructions this week. Over time, I add information and details accompanying some of the patterns as I receive orders for them. Therefore, I limited this week's board to a project I am resuming.
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I cut the semi-sheer cotton dress from pattern <a href=https://evadress.com/products/1935-beach-dress-d30-6223> D30-6223</a> some time ago and parked it for not deciding what color to use when interlining the dress. I wanted to ensure that the white figures in the print would be apparent, yet I did not want the finished dress to be 'glowing' white, overall. So, I opted to go with a bisque tone habotai. Once that yardage arrives it will be bound buttonhole-city for me and I will be sure to share that process here!
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At top right, is a draping study I did with double-side silk satin ribbon in place of making fabric straps for the halter. I am happy with how I can get the ribbon to go and I intend to use it around the waist too, in lieu of a 1-1/2" belt (I am short-waisted). The scheme at bottom right gives the front of the dress where I lapped the left front panel in place, along with the sage ribbon I will use and one of the (8 total) shell buttons.
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I posted this project on <a href=https://www.pinterest.com/evadress/1935-german-beach-dress/> a quick pinterest board</a>-the buttons do not have a source link as they are from my shop stock 11 years ago.
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week12_1c6d2281-c311-43fd-bd80-49175cb1a8d0.jpg?8229357800322180643><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week12_950bed02-c58b-440e-9b34-adacae2781d5.jpg?13381297883493239605></a>
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<a href=https://evadress.com/products/1945-two-piece-lounging-ensemble-se40-4244><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/4244sm.jpg?13800992403042856693></a>
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I worked up additional sizes in the <a href=https://evadress.com/products/1945-two-piece-lounging-ensemble-se40-4244> 1945 Lounging Ensemble</a> I mentioned previously.
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It is now available to 46" bust.
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Don't forget, my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2016/02/evadress-pattern-challenge-fitting-40s.html> here</a>) kicks off March 21!EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-9516155301033790412016-03-06T21:06:00.002-07:002016-07-30T17:53:13.477-07:00Feb. 29 - Mar. 4, The Week in Patterning 11The 1920 'Simple' Jacket is set to go, available <a href=https://evadress-patterns.myshopify.com/products/1920-simple-jacket-c20-1920> here</a>. Again, it is yet a single size pattern (although digitally drafted, not hand drafted). When I know if it is desired in multiple sizes, I will make it available as such.
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The 1920's continued to play out this week with the release of these two multi-size patterns as well. You will recall them from previous storyboards:
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The 1929 McCall Evening Frock to 48" bust:
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<a href=https://evadress-patterns.myshopify.com/products/1929-evening-frock-e20-5941><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/5941sm.jpg?18387857354792027123></a>
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and the 1929 bandeau, which one may use as a bust reducer on account of its lace-up and pleated back. It is also to 48" bust, but I recommend making a size or two less than your actual bust measurement when worn as a reducer. As always, see what your muslin practice says before cutting final goods:
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<a href=https://evadress-patterns.myshopify.com/products/1929-bust-reducer-u20-8262><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/8262sm.jpg?1975785782047837612></a>
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In this week's board, a few more steps in developing the <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/1920C.html> 1920 Simple Jacket instruction</a>. When I work through the muslin as posted in <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2016/02/feb-1-feb-5-week-in-patterning-7.html> Week 7</a>, I sew half the garment together and leave the remaining half in pieces so I may capture it step-by-step when sewing. In the instance of patterns drafted from masters as this one, I have to create the illustrated instructions by hand for lack of any in the original pattern issue.
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Also in this board, a little behind the scenes on the <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/4244.html> 1945 Lounging Ensemble</a> I mentioned last week. This capture shows the jacket front in the two original sizes I owned in this pattern (34" and 38" bust). These two sizes have been available in one set (also with 32" and 36" bust sizes), but I am completing the multi-size range bringing it to at least 46" bust which is the bulk of my work the next week. My aim is to get it ready to ship for anyone ordering it for my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2016/02/evadress-pattern-challenge-fitting-40s.html> here</a>)!
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week11_e404256a-2d76-4087-b43e-e69b765c8d49.jpg?10641303604692065190><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week11_9b655762-1990-4ddb-a74e-b0fe93ce8f25.jpg?9336725753776440135></a> EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-8411676429601197552016-02-28T14:20:00.000-07:002016-07-30T17:56:57.312-07:00Feb. 22 - Feb. 26, The Week in Patterning 10 I had planned to put on a 1920's EvaDress Pattern Challenge this spring, but re-considered and decided on hosting another 40's challenge.
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I felt I may not have enough to offer in my 1920's collection (even though I am adding three 1920's patterns this coming and the following week) and last year's 40's challenge went so well. I asked for input from FaceBook users on my patterns page where it was also confirmed that 1940's styles are so desirable as contemporary wear. Good argument, I felt.
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This means I will have the multi-size 1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem ready to go Friday, March 4 as I must complete the size range on a 40's pattern requested last year. It is shown on this week's storyboard as the 1945 Simplicity Lounging Ensemble (top left). This board also gives a little preview of what is on the boards for late spring/early summer. A customer forwarded the DuBarry 5510 pattern so I may re-size it for her, which means it goes into my multi-size range and will be available to all from my site. In coming storyboards, I will happily share the process of documenting and drafting from the original to the format that arrives in your mailbox as one of my multi-size patterns.
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Also shown is the 1949 Vogue 6120 pattern for another lounging ensemble. I have brought it out as one of those 'hidden gem' patterns that I haven't worked with as yet. It is part of the hidden gem series as I only have the jacket pieces and do not have the original pieces for the trousers. This means I will pair the jacket with a very similar style of trousers from another late-40's pattern to complete it. I will be making it available in multiple sizes.
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I have a good start on summer pattern work which involves 50's styles, also shown in this preview:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/week10_a82e1426-83b3-401c-a411-cfade862199c.jpg?15857520989660849388><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/72week10_6c8ae216-1d67-443c-a958-779159d36158.jpg?6939469940922264851></a>
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Sharing progress on the 1920 coat pattern returns next week as well. Also in 1920's news: I will host a 20's challenge in future and keep all posted here.EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-30503943420216454912016-02-28T13:19:00.000-07:002016-07-30T18:08:14.492-07:00EvaDress Pattern Challenge Fitting 40's! <a href=http://https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/patmont40s16150.jpg?11637787827894615537><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/patmontblog40s16.jpg?17857439160508638673></a>
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This is a sewing pattern challenge to create men’s or women’s garments from 1940’s EvaDress patterns. Accessories (hats, bags, etc.) are not counted as an individual project, but may accompany garments in a submission. Participants may each enter more than one project for this challenge.
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This one comes at the official start of spring! Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on March 21, 2016 although muslins for fitting may be created any time before the challenge kick-off date.
No purchase necessary to enter, so 1940's EvaDress patterns from stash may be used! The closing date to submit projects for this challenge is 11:59p.m. EST on June 1, 2016.
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The more complicated the project-an intricately embellished gown, adding accessories made from EvaDress patterns or ensembles vs. individual garments, the higher the consideration for placing as a finalist.
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One top finalist will receive a $100 non-expiring gift certificate good toward the <b>total</b> purchase (with tax and/or shipping) of original, reproduction or multi-size patterns from <a href=http://EvaDress.com>EvaDress Patterns</a>.
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Depending on the number of entries, a number of finalists will be selected based on quality of construction (construction detail shots are a must), accuracy to the challenge guidelines and overall design with projects remaining devout to the original pattern style lines. This is 'Fitting 40's'. Think about how tailored garments of all sorts were during the 1940's and you guessed it, superb fit is the essential in this challenge. Well-fitting garments are highly sought after here!
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I will invite a guest juror (and announce here) to review the finalists and select a top finalist.
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Projects submitted to other challenges are certainly welcome, provided they fit into the challenge parameters and time frame stated here.
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Log on to Facebook.com and I encourage you to join my <a href=https://www.facebook.com/groups/EvaDressPatternChallenge/>challenge group on FaceBook </a> in order to submit your project for consideration. The top finalist will be notified on the event wall by 11:59p.m. EST, June 3, 2016.
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NOTE: By entering this challenge you agree that your submission photos/descriptions may be used in the gallery on the EvaDress web site as promotional material for EvaDress.
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To enter, go <a href=https://www.facebook.com/events/1272618462753700/> here </a> and post your main photo on the page. add subsequent high quality project photos (longest edge of photo to be 11”, photo to be at 150dpi) including front, back, side views and construction/design details in the comments section under the main photo. Be sure to write why this project was meaningful to you to submit. Also indicate which pattern was used. Also indicate which pattern was used.
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Feel free to e-mail me with questions. Questions may also be posted on my Facebook (EvaDress Patterns) wall or posted by commenting on this blog post.
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-89887507470385250572016-02-21T20:33:00.000-07:002016-03-10T20:28:51.438-07:00Feb. 15 - Feb. 19, The Week in Patterning - 9Work continued this week on the 1920 'Simple' Jacket, but more detail on that in next week's update. It has been 20's week overall (with a touch of 1950's mixed-in). Checkout the progress on multi-sizing the <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/5941.html>1929 McCall Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem</a>:
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week9.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week9.jpg></a>
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I draft the original size pattern in my CAD program and then set to grading the pattern into more sizes using theory (and math) to get the first couple of sizes up from the original. In this case the pattern was originally for 36" bust and I graded it to 40" bust in order to give it a test in a full size paper pattern and muslin. Depending on how that size comes out, I will then grade the pattern to 46" bust and test that size at full scale as well. I was very happy how the pattern graded, so work continues!
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The little paper dress at center is from printing the full size pattern pieces at 1/5 scale. I use this scale paper model of half the dress to confirm that I have taken the size of the overall pattern up or down in the appropriate locations when working up the full size tests.
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I expect to have this multi-size version of the pattern ready to go by March 1.
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-65143907784291383302016-02-14T21:19:00.001-07:002016-02-14T21:19:35.583-07:00Feb. 8 - Feb. 12, The Week in Patterning - 8'Be My Valentine Blouse'. I made style 2 from pattern <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/5490.html> B50-5490</a> in deep red cotton sateen. I finished it up today to wear tomorrow for my sewing circle meeting, so will get pics snapped then.
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This week's story board covers one detail on the blouse (more details following with a fully finished shot). Namely, sewing silk organza (pre-hand-washed to remove sizing) bias to turn the sleeve revers. Image shows under-stitching the bias in place-I love all those glorious reds!
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week8.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week8.jpg></a>
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Per last week's post, a couple screen shots of the new multi-size pattern, the <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/4185.html>Butterick 1947 Dress with Cut-Outs</a>. One capture shows the original size 16 (34" bust) and size 40(" bust) which is the next size up in my muslin test. From there, I test again in muslin at 48" bust.
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The next capture demonstrates this as one of those patterns in which I cut the lapped sleeve (for style A of pattern below) in half to grade it into other sizes and I will then put it all back together:
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week8b.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week8b.jpg></a>
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Hope everyone had a great Valentine's Day to start the week off!
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-16281550040664093822016-02-07T18:57:00.001-07:002016-02-07T18:59:39.839-07:00Feb. 1 - Feb. 5, The Week in Patterning - 7The 1920 coat pattern is coming along in muslin. The current studies investigate the ease all around the coat that goes under the belt and how the fur collar will be attached to the coat. When the coat (originally referred to as a 'Simple Jacket') is finished, the belt is buttoned in place at front left and right sides. The belt neatly conceals the dart which shapes the waistline (which one notices in the pattern screenshot here, and as sewn in the muslin).
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One will also note that the model shown in the art is much longer than the pattern I drafted and this first muslin iteration. The original instructions advise to add 25cm additional length once the pattern has been drafted from the master. I will add this additional length (10 inches) to the digital pattern once I am through all of the muslin details.
<br>This muslin is for ensuring all pieces fit well together, to aid when I sketch construction details for the instructions I will provide with the finished pattern (hence, only one sleeve in place for these photos) and to verify the original pattern size.
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week7.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week7.jpg></a>
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Of course, this is not everything that has been happening in my pattern studio this week! I am through testing cut out details across sizes on my next multi-size pattern, the 1947 dress by Butterick. It is scheduled for issue shortly after Valentine's, so more on that in next weekend's post.
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/4185.html><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/4185sm.jpg></a> EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-87043747614024289852016-01-30T21:20:00.002-07:002016-02-07T19:01:00.545-07:00Jan. 25 - Jan. 29, The Week in Patterning - 6This and (a few following) storyboard(s) will allow you to watch the 1920 coat pattern come to life. At top, you recall this image of the master sheet from which I drafted each coat piece. Anytime I have an antique original master sheet, I run a large-format copy of it so as not to damage the original. I use colored pencils to locate each pattern piece in order to draft it to trace paper and then add seam allowances.
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Below the master image, you see each traced piece with seam allowances added superimposed on each piece's location in the master, respectively. The opaque piece at right is the first iteration of the sleeve cuff, printed on the translucent bond paper I use when printing my patterns.
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week6.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week6.jpg></a>
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These images depict a Rowan knitting project I completed to go with one of my 'new' vintage makes, It is just the low-backed slip from the <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/371.html>Vogue evening ensemble pattern 371</a> which lends itself so well to Rowan's 'Cobweb' shrug. I admire how Rowan promotes the use of such vintage styles as the 'framework' for their knitted and crocheted patterns-particularly in book 40 from which I knitted the shrug. In my favorite claret color, it is perfect for Valentine's Day!
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week6b.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week6b.jpg></a>
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This image, copyright Rowan:
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<img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/Rowanc.jpg>
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Don't forget, EvaDress Patterns is sponsoring the Red Dress Contest at <a href=http://patternreview.com>PatternReview.com</a>. First place will be awarded a $100 non-expiring EvaDress Pattern gift certificate and the second place will receive a $50 certificate. It kicks off tomorrow (Monday, Feb. 1, 2016)!EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-31440144484354005002016-01-24T13:19:00.001-07:002016-01-24T13:31:05.495-07:00Jan. 18 - Jan. 22, The Week in Patterning - 5I have a few of the 'new' vintage patterns posted for sale <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/OR-02.html>here</a>! They are in good sizes ranging from 34 to 42 bust. I have counted them all up and checked the condition of each, So my work will soon begin to add about six patterns (two of which shown in last week's board) to my multi-size line over time.
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This storyboard features two of the originals available (at top) and two new multi-size patterns-one for the <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/9797.html>1928 frock with jabot</a> (now 32" to 48" bust, with more sizes coming) and the re-worked <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/9063.html>1938 McCall blouses</a>. The blouses are now 32" to 48" bust also with more sizes coming. See last week's board for the silk matelasse sample of this blouse. It is marvelously detailed!
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week5.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week5.jpg></a>
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As well, you see the winner of the EvaDress Thrifty Thirties Pattern Challenge which closed the middle of this month. Milli did a wonderfully-fitting wool version of the 1933 Katharine Hepburn Ensemble from Butterick Starred Pattern 5156. She gets to shop $150 in EvaDress Patterns with the certificate she won!
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As always, I appreciate everyone's participation in this winter challenge. I will post the projects in my <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/gallery.html>online gallery</a> shortly.
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I have two challenges lined up for 2016, so stay tuned for details come this spring.
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<img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/Milli5156.jpg>
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On another challenge note, EvaDress Patterns is sponsoring the Red Dress Contest at <a href=http://patternreview.com>PatternReview.com</a>. First place will be awarded a $100 non-expiring EvaDress Pattern gift certificate and the second place will receive a $50 certificate.
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-14098740714573020102016-01-17T19:26:00.000-07:002016-01-17T19:26:35.442-07:00Jan. 11 - Jan. 15, The week in Patterning - 4First in this week's storyboard, 'new' vintage patterns arrived this week! They are from a generous customer going through a family member's life-long belongings. These are just two and note they (as are more from this collection) are in sizes ranging 38 to 44 bust. I will post more about the complete set of originals as I continue to check each one. So far, I am sure I will add each one of these to my multi-size line.
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This storyboard also includes a step back to the late-1930's as I complete the revisions to this blouse pattern I originally issued in sizes 32 to 42 bust. In addition to revising this pattern, I am adding sizes 44 and 46 bust. It will be ready for release late this coming week! Below left, is a silk matelasse sample I sewed from this pattern with the short, pleated sleeve.
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/week4.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/72week4.jpg></a>
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Also in week 1, I gave a finishing detail of the cotton bobbinet <a href=http://www.evadress.com/6969.html> Vogue 1935 Tucked Blouse</a> (worn over the <a href=http://evadress.com/7202.html> low-backed 1932 slip</a>). It is now complete with vintage 'West Germany' crystal buttons and all!
EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-38615945924098309872016-01-14T14:36:00.001-07:002016-05-29T00:27:12.308-07:00Make it with Wool 2016 Wrap-UpThese are highlights of finishing touches on my 2016 Make it with Wool and the complete ensemble from the skirt, up (click images for much larger views)!
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Due to the nature of the A-line wrap skirt pieces, I sewed all skirt seams in the directional manner. I obtained really good results when lining up the Pendleton woven pattern at the seams this way.
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For the waistband, I 'floated' a length of petersham ribbon between the waistband and waistband facing per Susan Khalje's <a href=http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/34589/video-couture-techniques-for-building-a-waistband> Build a Better Waistband</a>. The article was printed in Threads Magazine issue #165 February/March, 2013. The image shows carefully sewing the waistband to the skirt without catching the petersham (basted in place) into the machine stitches.
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/719150.jpg?3338340951097163868><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/719.jpg?17230703454776069759></a>
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I mentioned in my previous <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2015/09/my-2015-make-it-with-wool.html>2016 Make it with Wool</a> post that I used Gail Patrice's Deni-fuse interfacing for the skirt facing with a highly satisfactory result. Here is a detail of the skirt drape:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/det150.jpg?5904127415814017686><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/det72.jpg?14013691928204512508></a>
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First image below shows the completely stitched front panel of the corselet. I tipped the bottom end of each bone and slid the stitches down to cut and tip the top end of each bone to length. Afterward, I used needle and thread to secure the crochet stitches to each bone tip. Following photo details the crocheted 'V' channel being sewn into place (by leaving a yarn tail on the crocheted channel that is four times the length of each corselet edge).
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/706150.jpg?18380332398159083742><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/70672.jpg?2348785127085657302></a>
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/707150.jpg?7041290390459720596><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/70772.jpg?6455445840330194738></a>
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Back view of the corselet with buttons and ribbon lacing in place:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/corseletdet.jpg?7674921944918012124><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/corseletdet72.jpg?5252631993368966788></a>
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I often enjoy using bound edges as a finish, so I couldn't pass up the opportunity on the grand, draping collar of this Vogue blouse! I used self-fabric to finish as such. Following photo shows one of the two mitered corners:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/759150.jpg?15122411142616349021><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/75972.jpg?16035884047371732203></a>
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/retouchedcol.jpg?8246195775491733123><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/retouchedcol72.jpg?11325802830564383816></a>
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The complete ensemble as shot by Barbara Trainor Photography at the Arizona state final, Nov. 20, 2015!
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/whole150.jpg?6258433892592880358><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/whole72.jpg?736001378614882199></a>
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Nearly forgot the cherry on top! I fashioned this wool 'Gabardinia' from blouse scrap as a little whimsy to wear in my hair. I am afraid it doesn't show up in the angle in which the event photo was made:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/825.jpg?5363174563705943174><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/82572.jpg?16453669867274165525></a>
<br>EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-73330576947859589102016-01-10T20:27:00.000-07:002016-01-10T20:33:54.373-07:00Jan. 4 - Jan. 8, The week in Patterning - 3I completed the 1860 waist from EvaDress/Barrington House Polonaise <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/VLP60.html>pattern</a>. I look forward to obtaining photos of me wearing it to <a href=http://sharlot.org> Sharlot Hall Museum </a> Living History program yesterday for you all to see! Look up the <a href=http://evadress.blogspot.com/2016/01/dec-21-dec-24-week-in-patterning-1.html> first week's post </a> for the in-progress and intro to this project.
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Also in week 1, I gave a finishing detail of the cotton bobbinet <a href=http://www.evadress.com/6969.html> Vogue 1935 Tucked Blouse</a> (worn over the <a href=http://evadress.com/7202.html> low-backed 1932 slip</a>). It is now complete with vintage 'West Germany' crystal buttons and all!
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In more patterns to come shortly, I am ready to grade a 1929 Bust Reducer into multiple sizes! Here you see it below right (original size is 48" bust).
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At lower left is a 'simple' French 1920 coat I am about to digitize and will make available in multi-size as well.
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<a href=http://www.evadress.com/images/week3.jpg><img src=http://www.evadress.com/images/72week3.jpg></a> EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-24623912038529287622016-01-01T19:11:00.002-07:002016-01-02T12:12:25.492-07:00Dec. 28 – Jan. 1, The week in Patterning – 2I have 7 yards of sheer cotton to use with last summer’s <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/VL18691.html>1869 bustle dress pattern</a>.
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I stretched it out from my studio into the kitchen where my pair of rabbits were playing for the day. This meant I had inadvertently created a bunny runway when I thought I was quickly assessing how the pattern would take the plaid!
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<a href=http://www.evadress.com/images/week2.jpg><img src=http://www.evadress.com/images/72week2.jpg></a>
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The studies at lower right are options I am throwing around depending on how much of the sheer I have for such a finish. Part of this week's patterning has been to digitize, print and revise the pieces as well as add seam allowances to each and create cutting layout diagrams for them. The option at top is the basque originally prescribed as part of the bustle dress ensemble, yet the two below are offered as separate, more formal finishes. I will offer them as such once they are in multiple sizes.
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Lastly, I managed to uncover yet another 'Hidden Gem'. I began issuing those patterns that somehow slipped through the cracks over the years, or needed a little something to complete it. Not sure how I overlooked this one as I went through some possibilities in '15, so it will be up in the next day!
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/4871.html><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/PR4871.jpg></a>EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-11254678447219827112016-01-01T15:00:00.002-07:002016-01-01T15:04:31.556-07:00Dec. 21 – Dec. 24, The Week in Patterning - 1This is a new section featuring what I have been up to by-the-week for lack of posting much online. I gleaned inspiration for posting more often this way from <a href=http://www.annwoodhandmade.com/> Ann Wood Handmade</a>. Each entry will be posted in storyboard fashion (click images for larger version). Please enjoy and Happiest of New Years' to you!
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I consider a couple of current sewing projects as a lead-up to this Christmas. I machine-tucked the bobbinet blouse December 2014 when first experimenting with <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/6969.html> circa 1935 Vogue’s pattern 6969</a> (which had been a gift to me earlier in the year). This week was devoted to wrapping seams, securing the MANY thread ends off each pleat and roll-hemming edges.
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The blouse came from the drapes off the bobbinet gown I created from <a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/371.html> circa 1935 Vogue’s Couturier design 371</a> in 2011. The cotton bobbinet is perfect for this blouse! I will post the complete blouse the week of Jan. 4.
<br>This blouse pattern is currently available in its original size (34" bust), yet I will work the blouse up in multiple sizes between other pattern deadlines the first half of 2016.
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<a href=http://www.evadress.com/images/week1.jpg><img src=http://www.evadress.com/images/72week1.jpg></a>
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The second project is a sheer waist (also in progress) I created from our <a href=http://www.evadress.com/VLP60.html> 1860 Polonaise Pattern</a> released in 2013. The waist is meant to go under my Swiss waist I created last December (shown over a borrowed blouse). The completed waist will be shared the week of Jan. 11.
<br>I wear the waist(s) for Living History interpretation at our <a href=https://www.sharlot.org/> Sharlot Hall Museum</a>. January is devoted to handwork for me, which means I take the <a href=http://www.evadress.com/VLC62.html> Spanish Jacket</a> and continue to add to the soutache motif!
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I received a request for the Swiss Waist in pattern form and I have a great deal to offer this year, so I will see how I do this year as far as tucking it in between pattern deadlines!
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<a href=http://www.evadress.com/images/week1b.jpg><img src=http://www.evadress.com/images/72week1b.jpg></a>EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-82243601710328675212015-10-29T13:48:00.001-07:002015-11-07T14:33:24.038-07:00EvaDress Patterns Challenge: 'Thrifty Thirites' Starts November 15, 2015!<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/30patmontage.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/30spatmontageblog.jpg></a><br>
‘Thrifty Thirties’ is a sewing pattern challenge to create men’s or women’s garments from 1930’s EvaDress patterns. Accessories (hats, bags, etc.) are not counted as an individual project, but will strongly be considered as accompaniments in a submission. Participants may each enter more than one project for this challenge.
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Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on November 15, 2015, although muslins for fitting may be created any time before then.
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‘Thrift’ implies frugality, thinking of The Depression-struck 1930’s. ‘Thrift’ may take on different meanings for this challenge. One may want to pull strictly from stash to create a submission, while others may feel that splurging on that long-wanted garment may warrant finding the goods and the means to pull out all the stops (in lieu of buying a designer or ready-made piece for a particular event).
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Either way, I find superior fit in a garment to be somewhat of a frugality especially in looking at examples of 1930’s fashion. Proper fit in clothing did not go the wayside in hard economic times. If anything, it was an economy of style in itself and proper fit prevailed no matter one’s economic circumstances.
That said, judging of final submissions will rely heavily on very well fitted garments with a variety of details endemic to 1930’s designs.
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No purchase necessary to enter, so 1930's EvaDress patterns from stash are fair game!
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The closing date to submit projects for this challenge is 11:59p.m. EST on January 15, 2016.
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The more complicated the project-an intricately embellished gown, or ensembles over individual garments, the higher the consideration for placing as a finalist.
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One top finalist will receive a $150 non-expiring gift certificate to EvaDress.com.
Depending on the number of entries, five finalists will be selected based on quality of construction (construction detail shots are a must), accuracy to the challenge guidelines and overall design with projects remaining devout to the original pattern style lines.
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Projects submitted to other challenges outside of this one are certainly welcome, provided they fit into the Thrifty Thirties parameters stated here.
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The top finalist will be notified here no later than 11:59p.m., January 17, 2016.
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Please keep in mind by entering this challenge that you are allowing EvaDress to make use of all images submitted for other promotions, blog posts, as samples from the patterns, etc.
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To enter, go <a href=https://www.facebook.com/events/1681241908804027/> HERE </a> and post high quality images (longest edge of photo to be at least 11”) to include front, back, side views and construction/design details. Post the main photo to the page and subsequent project photos in the comments section under the main photo. Be sure to write why you chose the particular project you are submitting and let us know what your idea of frugality is behind your project. Also indicate which pattern was used.
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E-mail me with questions or post them on my Facebook (Alexandra Reynolds, a.k.a. EvaDress) wall or posted by commenting on this blog post.
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<a href=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/30mont.jpg><img src=http://www.EvaDress.com/images/30montblog.jpg></a>EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-70398813054726385542015-09-20T15:04:00.000-07:002016-08-05T18:43:42.926-07:00My 2016 Make it with WoolThis is the first of a series detailing my three-piece <a href=http://makeitwithwool.com/> 2016 Make it with Wool</a> entry.
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In an effort to present wool as unexpectedly fresh and light, I am creating Vogue's 1949 Kimono Blouse from pattern 6970 with large draped collar in sand-colored superfine gabardine. This wool gabardine has such a subtle sheen due to its ultra-fine weave, it's nearly satin! Having this lustrous fabric is exciting as I think this ensemble should 'sparkle' in places.
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<a href=https://evadress-patterns.myshopify.com/products/1949-kimono-blouse-b40-6970><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/6970sm.jpg?5734677687272063829></a>
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The second piece is the 1944 wrap Skirt originally by McCall. I sewed it in a lightly woven Pendleton with Fleur de Lis and paisley figures in charcoal tones:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/Pendleton150.jpg?13928017259129731896><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/Pendletonsm.jpg?8596002036076535864"></a>
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The detail below the pattern front shows the Hong Kong seams wrapped in silk habotai with which I also lined the skirt in a dark navy.
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I first spotted this Pendleton at the 2014 MiWW state final and thought it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen in wool! I did not win the piece (it was the gratis piece for that year from Pendleton Woolen Mills), but I did track 1-1/2 yards of it down and knew just what to do! I used the fabric's woven border at the hem and the drape of the left faced section of the skirt went perfectly with Gail Patrice <a href=http://gailpatrice.com/products-page/interfacing/denifuse-2/> deni-fuse interfacing.</a>
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<a href=https://evadress-patterns.myshopify.com/products/1944-wrap-skirt-sk40-5817><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/5817sm.jpg?11702989227577374711"></a>
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P7260460150.jpg?9558720864450185352><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P7260460sm.jpg?3262020056890759964"></a>
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The idea is that the blouse and skirt are soft, sculptured pieces.
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As for the color scheme, I am following a palette of colors I enjoyed on Stinson Beach four years ago. The charcoal of the skirt and the sand of the gabardine both match colors on each end of the mussel shells I picked up from the beach. I wanted to pull deep blue out of the charcoal woven for some reason (perhaps that seashell's strong influence on me?) so lining it in navy was so suitable.
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That said, enter the otherwise 'blue' aspect of the project; the corselet.
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I am accessorizing the blouse and skirt with a Tunisian crocheted corselet. The pattern is from Vogue Knitting, Holiday 2004 (seen <a href=http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/01-laced-corset/slideshow?fullscreen=1&start=2352395>here</a>). To satisfy the competition's requirement of wool content, I chose Madeline Tosh Merino Light for this piece. The variegated blues in the merino stitched corselet make up the range of blues through the center of the sea shells.
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I had made a Tunisian stitched corset in Alchemy's bamboo 8 years ago, only wider than the version I am now doing. With the large blouse collar and the fact that I am short-waist-ed, I did not want to be engulfed in the wider original version of the stitched corset.
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I understand the history of the Tunisian Simple Stitch to be murky, yet the idea of the dense stitch for warm sailor sweaters or Sontag's in the 1800's is clear. I say this is 'Not your mother's afghan stitch' because as a kid in the 70's, I remember the sunburst-patterned afghan in gold, almond and yellow swathed over couch at any given time. I like the idea that Tunisian-stitched items started out as very pragmatic, then leaped to one of THE hand stitches in 1970's throws and now has come back as wearable art.
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As I like to play on paradox, my concept in the merino-stitched piece dictates what is thought of as a very dense, grid stitch becomes so light and de-materialized is almost ethereal in a very structural corselet! The wool becomes translucent when crocheted over spiral steel dressmaking bones and the grid stitch pattern opens up when stretched around the midriff.
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P9150625150.jpg?2044152864839635748><img src="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P9150625sm.jpg?1346574203861610683"></a>
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As in my submission last year, I explored different graphic scales between each piece. I mentioned how smooth the gabardine blouse is and made a step up to the grainy weave in the Pendleton skirt. The final transition takes place in the pixilated stitches of the corset, being the piece which separates the blouse and skirt.
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More construction details coming up in the next post!EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6154086672245299215.post-2441918895231972382015-08-19T23:04:00.033-07:002022-02-03T18:20:52.808-07:00Sewing the Collar on the 1929 McCall Evening Wrap Pattern 5945This post addresses methods of constructing and attaching the collar on this 1929 wrap pattern:
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<a href=https://evadress.com/products/1929-evening-wrap-c20-5945?_pos=1&_sid=87b152543&_ss=r><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/5945sm.jpg?v=1643914480></a>
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Technically this is a shawl collar, so the collar may be attached and enclosed in the usual shawl collar manner which is outlined further down in this post. Alternately, the collar may be constructed and then attached which is first detailed below.
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You ask which method to use? The answer is simply up to your sewing experience or will to learn a new method as we all know in sewing, there is more than one way to go about many things.
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<b>Joining the collar/collar facing and then attaching to the wrap:</b>
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<i>Side note:</i> No matter which method is used, the first steps are to shir and dart each collar and facing section. The images do not show the lining that would otherwise be included in the process of making this wrap. Click images for larger views:
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Sew optional band to outside of collar section (not shown).
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Run long basting stitches along inner edge of collar section, as indicated on pattern. The first row of stitches is applied 3/8" from the raw edge and subsequent rows are stitched 1/2" apart. It is then important to bring all thread tails of the shirring rows to the wrong side of each collar and facing section. This way, they can be caught into the center of the large dart you are about to sew, and then secured, thus not showing on the right side. Shir and dart collar facing the same:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130555150.jpg?v=1643914544><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59451.jpg?v=1643914559></a>
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Shows the wrong side of collar with thread tails brought through and dart is stitched. Cut dart and press open:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130549150.jpg?v=1643914613><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130549.jpg?v=1643914625></a>
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Shows the right side of collar with thread tails brought through and dart is stitched:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130552150.jpg?v=1643914637><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59453.jpg?v=1643914649></a>
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After sewing the smaller darts along the opposite edge, press darts toward center back of each section. With right sides together, stitch collar and collar facing sections together along un-notched edge. Turn and press seam in edge; baste open (notched) edges together.
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140572150.jpg?v=1643914729><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59454.jpg?v=1643914748></a>
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Trim extra seam allowance edges from corner:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140577150.jpg?v=1643914797><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59455.jpg?v=1643914809></a>
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Clip into seam allowance of fold line at wrap front, shown as a O in this photo:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140556150.jpg?v=1643914850><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59456.jpg?v=1643914863></a>
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The fold line at wrap front is indicated in this photo by a black line. Align the basted edge of collar/facing with the top of that line to ensure corner of collar is exactly matched with corner at front fold-line seam allowance. This should ensure that seam lines will converge between the faced collar and wrap-baste in place:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140578150.jpg?v=1643915428><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59457.jpg?v=1643915494></a>
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Turn wrap on front fold line so raw edge of wrap facing is even with raw edges of collar and wrap front underneath. Photo shows (from wrong side) the fold line turned with front corner of collar brought through the clip (made into the seam allowance from a couple steps before). Stitch in place:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140582150.jpg?v=1643915546><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59458.jpg?v=1643915494></a>
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Shows collar and facing turned (circle mark is lightly visible at corner of joining):
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140584150.jpg?v=1643915648><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59459.jpg?v=1643915731></a>
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<b>Joining in the shawl collar manner (these first steps are repeatedly posted from the process given above):</b>
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Sew optional band to outside of collar section (not shown).
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Run long basting stitches along inner edge of collar section, as indicated on pattern. The first row of stitches is applied 3/8" from the raw edge and subsequent rows are stitched 1/2" apart. It is then important to bring all thread tails of the shirring rows to the wrong side of each collar and facing section. This way, they can be caught into the center of the large dart you are about to sew, and then secured, thus not showing on the right side. Shir and dart collar facing the same:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130555150_57e97bf7-c0d0-419f-90ee-1737a68764a4.jpg?v=1643915774><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59451_05e05339-7b2b-4aad-a903-97638fe865a5.jpg?v=1643915785></a>
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Shows the wrong side of collar with thread tails brought through and dart is stitched. Cut dart and press open:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130549150_ff30ddea-9375-46d2-8315-88f3e43a9cb7.jpg?v=1643915829><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130549_dbbb1330-0174-41d7-b408-ca5def212de0.jpg?v=1643915842></a>
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Shows the right side of collar with thread tails brought through and dart is stitched:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8130552150.jpg?v=1643914637><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59453.jpg?v=1643914649></a>
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Clip into the seam allowance of front facing turn line, (to circle) as shown in first photo. In this method, the right side of the notched edge of collar is joined with the right side of the wrap neck edge-NOTE: End of stitching is at point where the seam line of the collar edge and wrap edge converge-there is seam allowance which overhangs here. Stop stitches at as in second photo:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140556150.jpg?v=1643914850><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/59456.jpg?v=1643914863></a>
<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140571150.jpg?v=1643916385><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140571.jpg?v=1643916241></a>
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The right side of notched edge of collar facing is joined to right side of wrap facing (as is stopping stitches at same point) in same manner as collar section (regard note about seam lines converging at same point, above.
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140566150.jpg?v=1643916443><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140566.jpg?v=1643916483></a>
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At this time, the collar and facing are joined with right sides together along the outside (un-notched) edge:
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140565150.jpg?v=1643937563><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140565.jpg?v=1643937550></a>
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The collar is turned right side out as is the wrap/wrap facing along facing fold line indicated on wrap front piece (press seams of collar/facing in edge and press along facing fold line-the collar facing edge is shown not completely sewn to facing edge for reference):
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<a href=http:https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140563150.jpg?v=1643916568><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140563.jpg?v=1643916601></a>
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Shows collar/facing joined to wrap from the outside (collar is shown not completely sewn in place for reference):
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<a href=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140559150.jpg?v=1643916637><img src=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1130/0994/files/P8140559.jpg?v=1643916648></a>
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EvaDresshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14502630604741538174noreply@blogger.com0