Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Make it with Wool 2014 Projects

First of a series detailing my 2014 Make It With Wool entry.

I am creating Vogue's 1937 Dress from pattern 573 in a featherweight black sheer wool.  It has a fine grid weave which lends a graphic quality to the dress and gives it an edge.  My intent is to demonstrate wool's diaphanous ability by using this sheer, so the short sleeves, front scarf inset and lower hem are left un-lined.  This way, the sheer is really played up against parts of the dress which are lined (in china silk).

The second piece of my entry is Vogue's 1937 Coat from pattern 3916 I cut from black wool jacquard.  This is a medium-weight coating which is a little chunky with floral patterns in the weave so the jacquard surface reads almost as though it were pixilated.  Parts of the jacquard weave are more open than others so there is a transparency in this wool as well.  I will line the coat with a contrasting glacial blue silk satin, the idea being that as the coat moves and catches light, hints of that contrasting lining will pop through the more open parts of the jacquard weave.

My approach has been to explore the contrast between translucency and opacity, light and shadow and the different graphic scales of each fabric in this two-piece ensemble.

The first photo shows the dress bodice and skirt back cut from the sheer wool before I placed the respective interlining (click images for larger views):

The inside of the assembled coat before I placed the lining:

The dress bodice pieces (aside from the scarf front insert and sleeves) are interlined with silk organza to give structure and to obscure where seam allowances would show through the sheer.  There is simply a lining under the skirt pieces.  They are without organza interlining so a different read of translucency and a better hand are obtained.  On that account, the skirt requires different treatment of the seams than those of the bodice (details about that later).

Each bodice piece was also cut in silk organza.  I did not cut notches, but rather marked them with tailor tacks as shown in blue thread:

and hand-basted to the wrong side of each respective sheer piece:

I started assembling the dress by handling the pieces to be left sheer first.  All non-seamed edges of the front scarf insert had to be hand-rolled before I could start joining seams.
I went for Threads Magazine's recommendation of Design Plus Straight Fusible Stay Tape (April/May 2014, issue 172) when rolling the neck edges of the scarf for support since the scarf closes at center front with hooks, bars and is trimmed with glass buttons.  The tape is superfine weight and doesn't interfere with the fabric's natural hand.  The tape I used is black, 3/8" wide.  Since I hand-rolled edges that would only take up 3/8" of the fabric's edge where 5/8" seam allowances were given, I trimmed 1/4" off the edges to be hand rolled ONLY!  This meant leaving the full 5/8" given where the scarf edges would not be rolled and thus joined in bodice seams.  The photo shows a test piece having been trimmed.  I did stay-stitching in white for visibility:

Right side of the front scarf insert, tailor tacks indicate placement so I know where to stop trimming for hand-rolling the edges:

Next post, I'll pick up at hand-rolling the scarf edges.

Patterns Update - 6 Additions

Although it has been some time since I last posted here, there have been a number of patterns added to the site.  First off, the 1927 Frock by McCall is now in sizes 14 to 46.  It features an optional asymmetrical over-blouse and tunic skirt over the frock skirt front and back, a very unique style that is simple yet loaded with details:

Closely following the August issue of the 1927 Frock was this French design for a princess seam sweetheart neck-line dress with kimono sleeves.  Since this was originally a custom grade project, the size range is from 32 to 40" bust. I will add more sizes according to demand.  Please note the size standards are different for this pattern, so be sure to read the description on the pattern page below:

Also in multi-size patterns, the 1930 Frock by McCall in sizes 14 through 46.  It is THE quintessential Deco frock!

The set of four hats by Butterick is the last of the pre-fall patterns I have made available.  I was particularly excited about this one for the cloche styles!

As I advised in previous posts, my personal sewing had taken a real back seat due to business demands.   I hung up the sheer halter project (I modified from the 1956 McCall's swimsuit pattern) to be revived again in time for next summer.  Another reason for staving off that sewing; the sewing time I have gotten, I have been at the two competition pieces I will submit for this year's Make it with Wool competition.  I had shared the first image below to demonstrate the sheer quality of the wool for making the Vogue 573 dress (shows the bodice and skirt back pieces).

Now you also see the jacquard wool for the 1937 Vogue coat which has wonderful translucent qualities:

I am happily working up a post of detail images of the progress on the dress and the coat which you will be seeing in a few hours.
Happy fall sewing!

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Latest in Multi-Size Patterns!

Now in sizes 12 to 46, the 1933 Lounging Ensemble originally by Simplicity:
A really unusual pattern for the wide leg pajama trousers and apron which attaches via buttonhole to the blouse.  The blouse has two sleeve variations in short puff or shirred styles.  The ensemble also features the non-closing jacket with bell sleeve.

Also in multi-size patterns, the 1944 Suit Dress and Scarf by Vogue.  It is currently available in sizes 18 through 46 since this the last of the custom grades I did for this year.  I will add sizes 14 and 16 per demand:
The 1939 Dressing Gown by Advance:
The last of a small series of 1860's patterns, the 1862 Veste Figaro, a Spanish style jacket and waistcoat:

A customer brought to my attention a couple of errors I managed to make in the 1956 Swim or Playsuit pattern.  I gave too much length in the bodice back piece which is noticeable at the side seam.  Additionally, the buttonhole marking was incorrectly placed on the back neck band.  The right side of the buttonhole line is to end at the center back line indicated.  I have re-drafted each of these pieces and fine-tuned the back stay piece to align properly, so please let me know via e-mail if you need me to send the revised pieces to you at no charge, of course.
Also remember that the original skirt came in one size to fit 14 through 20 (aside from the skirt length for size 12) so, I left the skirt as such although because I added sizes 40 and 42 to the range, there will be up to an 11" opening between the front edges of the skirt under the waistband ties.  I recommend adding an additional pleat in the skirt or re-doing the pleats proportionally to accommodate your selected size in order that the two front skirt edges nearly meet, as shown in the original pattern art.

Lastly, my personal sewing is always at the mercy of business demands, so I haven't any progress photos to share regarding the sheer projects I mentioned in the last post (although there is progress).  I plan to make those updates next time I post here.

Up next time is the release of the 1930 frock with cut outs by McCall

and the French dress with kimono sleeves and sweetheart neckline

Happy sewing in the meantime!

Friday, May 30, 2014

New Multi-Size Pattern, 1956 Swim or Playsuit and Skirt

Now in sizes 12 to 42, the 1956 Swim or Playsuit and Skirt originally by McCall's:
This pattern features the bubble bloomers (shorts) and cross-front halter.  The original skirt came in one size to fit 14 through 20 (aside from the skirt length for size 12).  NOTE: I left the skirt as such although since I added sizes 40 and 42 to the range, there will be up to an 11" opening between the front edges of the skirt under the waistband ties.  I recommend adding an additional pleat in the skirt or re-doing the pleats proportionally to accommodate your selected size in order that the two front skirt edges nearly meet, as shown in the original pattern art.

Being that 2014 is my 'Sheer Year', I am creating a separate halter top from this pattern in cotton/rayon voile (below).  I will cut a shaped interlining (and may even line it) in white cotton sateen, yet leave the cross-front sheer and omit the back stay.   I plan to make the bottom 2" of the halter sheer so it will read as such when worn over trousers, shorts or a skirt for dressier occasions and tucked in under shorts or the like as casual wear.
Below are the front halter pieces in voile (click images for larger view) with tailor tacks for the pleats at the shoulder and a quick sketch of the shaped interlining upon the original art:

Will share that project progress here in coming weeks.

To address more meaning of my 'Sheer Year', here is a sneak peek (back bodice and back skirt) of my 2014 Make it with Wool Competition project.  I am working up a black sheer wool version of the 1937 Vogue dress from pattern D30-573 and will pair it with the 1939 Vogue Coat from pattern C30-3916.

I will share progress as I move through the project in coming weeks although you can see the working details from my Pinterest 'Vogue Dress Project' and '1939 Inspired Coat' boards!

On the last update note here, I have posted more original patterns to my site and I plan to make more available through early summer so have a look starting with these:

Monday, April 28, 2014

New Multi-Size Pattern, the 1946 Butterick Draped Dinner Dress

Now in sizes 12 to 46, the 1946 Draped Dinner Gown:

The model on the pattern page is a shortened day version created by a customer in Oz.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Heartbleed and EvaDress.com

As I posted on Facebook: A quick note about Heartbleed regarding EvaDress.com.
EvaDress is an http site, so it is not affected.
I also do not have a password login system on the site presently, although I had one up for a couple months almost two years ago. I am not able to say in that instance if the site was impacted.
Additionally and most importantly now, EvaDress online card processing has not been compromised by Heartbleed and you are able to verify via link below by pasting this URL (which points to the online cart): https://va.eftsecure.net/eftcart

Monday, April 21, 2014

On the Boards, Summer 2014

The McCall's 1956 Cross-Front Swimsuit with Skirt will be ready in multiple sizes the end of May, bust 30 to 40:

For June, this 1930's dressing gown in sizes 32" to 46" bust:

Next up is one of the first patterns I ever picked up, the 1933 pajamas ensemble in sizes 32" to 46" bust for July (currently available in original size 30 bust, click on image):

The second of two French patterns generously made available by customer Kacey follows later in July:
...and the 1930 McCall Frock in sizes 32" to 46" bust this August: