Sunday, April 24, 2016

Apr. 18 - Apr. 22, The Week in Patterning 18

It's been a whirlwind week around here.
First, in sewing from EvaDress Patterns news, the 1935 summer dress continued as I completed bound buttonhole facings. A quick product plug here: I show one of the back facing seam allowances 'taped' with deni fuse sheer interfacing by Gail Patrice. The interfacing comes pre-cut 3-yards long at 60" wide in black or white. I created my own straight 3/8" stay tape from my white deni fuse in order to stabilize the back edges of the dress.

You also see how the belt is attached to the dress. In lieu of cutting a fabric belt, I chose double-face silk satin ribbon which I will likely tie at center front. The belt attachment is unique and I think throws some sewers. Each end of the belt is sewn into the facing/back edge of both right and left sides, yet the right belt section threads through a vertical buttonhole created in the back left side. The belt from the right back side is also folded away from the back edge and top-stitched along its center (not yet done in photo) for about an inch in order to accommodate the way the back left side laps the back right side:

Lastly, I will launch my new web site the end of this coming week-yay! The site will have features everyone expects in search capabilities and multiple payment methods. This also means by May 8, you will see my blog post entries from the new web site homepage (as indicated below, can't miss that BIG red arrow)! I am not sure yet how I will handle all the entries I have made to date from this address, but when I have that figured, I will fill you in.
...and I am still wearing my kitchen apron from dinner prep!

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Apr. 11 - Apr. 15, The Week in Patterning 17

Well, I haven't been sewing laps in the studio, but I have been sewing lappets! Not unlike little flower petals, these lappets stand along the neck opening on the 1869 bustle dress.
Once pinked, they are a finishing touch on the waist of this ensemble. You see a quick remedy I put into the front neckline as I forgot to pinch out extra length in my pattern before cutting the waist front to prevent gaping.
You can do this with many V-neck garments before finishing. I eased 5/8" of length out of each side of the front neckline by cutting a narrow piece of twill tape 6-3/8" long. Leaving the lappets pinned on, I eased the entire 7" length of neckline down to the twill which will then be stitched in place when I attach the finishing bias facing strip:

As in the board below, hand-drafting continues through tomorrow. Last week, I addressed a particularly damaged pattern to bring it up to snuff for multi-sizing. It is the front section for the cropped halter in the Advance pattern below (View 1):

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Apr. 4 - Apr. 8, The Week in Patterning 16

Been hand drafting originals this week. Namely, this sarong and jacket pattern and a DuBarry blouse and skirt. Both patterns were sent in by customers wishing to have these styles in their sizes and so the patterns may also be available from my collection in multi-size. The red arrow in next to last photo points to the location of one of the (faintly showing) perforations indicating where an elbow dart is made in the blouse 3/4-length sleeve:

As shown in the last image above, I have an unusually crumpled pattern in the next set I am drafting for this Advance tops pattern:

Sunday, April 3, 2016

Mar. 28 - Apr. 1, The Week in Patterning 15

This board highlights bound buttonhole details I put to use on my 1935 Beach Dress:

I outlined my photos with text and illustrations from Dressmaking Made Easy, by The McCall Pattern Company, 1946. I have a couple additional tips I recommend when working with the binding of each buttonhole you are welcome to access via pdf here.  Click image to get larger views:

More 40's and 50's multi-size patterns are yet on their way this year to include these two! My work continued on each this week, expecting to have the 50's halter/bodice pattern tested and ready to go by April's end. It will be some time before I have the junior size blouses pattern tested out and ready for issue, but I will announce here:

This week's work will involve hand-drafting more originals to add to my multi-size line later this and into next year. As well, you get the hint by now that my work is not linear as I must toggle between different projects. Expect to see more progress on my 1869 sheer dress and the 1935 beach dress!

Saturday, March 26, 2016

Mar. 21 - Mar. 25, The Week in Patterning 14

I went into the fray with the 1869 bustle dress I showed a little of last week. This time, you get a bigger picture as to where some of these smaller pinked details go. I agitate the edges of the pinking to give a slightly frayed effect as on some extant gowns of the time. The idea is keeping this ensemble clean with simple embellishment.

Part of the magic in my work is making great leaps through time in an instant! We hop 78 years later to 1947 when Butterick originally issued this hood pattern which I now have in original size 36-38" bust and for 22" head size. I will take it to multiple sizes if there is interest, so let me know! .

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Mar. 14 - Mar. 18, The Week in Patterning 13!

It's been a week mad with plaid as the 'bunny runway dress' (1869 bustle dress) continues in a light cotton shirting. To see why it is the bunny runway dress, look back at my week 2 post here!

I used the skirt yoke parts of a 1930's pattern to create the top portion of my Civil War-time (Pendleton) wool petticoat which lead to some matching plaid for a little somebun I know named Flat Fred!
Flat Fred was made by Flat and he is the mascot for a rabbit rescue called Tranquility Trails Animal Sanctuary in the Scottsdale area of Phoenix. If you have been very lucky, you may have met Fred on one of his travels as he gets around to educate people about the wonderful world of rabbits and the responsible care they require.
I patterned a couple accessories for him earlier this year and I quickly fashioned a kilt for him to wear on his trip to Scotland this summer! I call this pattern the clan carrot tartan ; )

Also in plaid news, I confirmed I have just enough of the woven plaid (bottom image) from which to cut the shorter length of the 1929 coat. I didn't get to sew on it this weekend as planned, but you will start seeing that progress unfold in the next boards: Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off tomorrow, March 21!

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Mar. 7 - Mar. 11, The Week in Patterning 12

Aside from grading patterns, I have been in the throes of revising pattern instructions this week. Over time, I add information and details accompanying some of the patterns as I receive orders for them. Therefore, I limited this week's board to a project I am resuming.

I cut the semi-sheer cotton dress from pattern D30-6223 some time ago and parked it for not deciding what color to use when interlining the dress. I wanted to ensure that the white figures in the print would be apparent, yet I did not want the finished dress to be 'glowing' white, overall. So, I opted to go with a bisque tone habotai. Once that yardage arrives it will be bound buttonhole-city for me and I will be sure to share that process here!
At top right, is a draping study I did with double-side silk satin ribbon in place of making fabric straps for the halter. I am happy with how I can get the ribbon to go and I intend to use it around the waist too, in lieu of a 1-1/2" belt (I am short-waisted). The scheme at bottom right gives the front of the dress where I lapped the left front panel in place, along with the sage ribbon I will use and one of the (8 total) shell buttons.
I posted this project on a quick pinterest board-the buttons do not have a source link as they are from my shop stock 11 years ago.

I worked up additional sizes in the 1945 Lounging Ensemble I mentioned previously.
It is now available to 46" bust.

Don't forget, my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off March 21!