Sunday, January 25, 2015

A Few Pattern Revisions, re: Size sets

I have started work breaking some multi-size patterns into sets A and B to follow with the overall multi-size line trend. While these are now available in separate sheets for each eet, be sure to check each style for the exact range of measurements included in each set:

Saturday, December 27, 2014

A40-4599, The 1940's One-Yard Apron, my new kitchen love!

A little show-and-tell here as I wrapped up my apron in time for Holiday cooking. This apron was originally from a mail-order pattern and is cut from one yard of 44"/45" fabric, meaning the fabric lay on the bias across the apron (and that any fabric print you are using, will appear upside-down at the top back of the apron). For it, I chose a quilting print of vintage kitchen items and vignettes. The edges of the apron are all bound with contrasting bias fold tape. I only placed one pocket matching it upon the print (at lower left on apron, with top edge bound in red). I used vintage black plastic buttons, but I placed them using cream thread to maintain the overall graphic quality of the apron.

On the Boards for Winter, 2015. Off to another great pattern year!

The Pictorial Review evening gown with diagonal seams is now ready in multiple sizes, bust 32-1/2" to 46-1/2". Note the half-size nature in sizes implies what we now refer to as petite. Before ordering, please pay attention to the fact that the dress back length is much shorter than for regular sizes and you will have to invest work in lengthening the pattern to suit you:

Following in early spring is McCall's 4425, the side-tie dress for day or evening:

If you are on Pinterest, you can see what I have proposed for the boards all this year. There are a couple tentative projects, but I will announce updates each quarter as to coming patterns.

If you have been tuning in to my Make it with Wool project, this year, I added a small addendum to the final post as I had forgotten to include details of the coat back lacing detail:

Friday, November 28, 2014

Make it with Wool 2014, Last Segment and an Amendment

Aside from making the coat collar removable, the only change I made was to the back of the coat.  I laid a pleat on each side of the center back in order to add boning so I could create a lacing detail for back interest.  First, I fused a strip of cotton interfacing inside the line (shown in long, purple tailor tacks) where the pleat was to be folded. (click images for larger views):

I stitched a cotton boning channel along the inside edge of the interfacing into which I inserted 1/2" spiral steel (shown on top of the channel):

Shows the sleeve stiffeners I created using coarse silk net over cotton buckram:

As applied to the seam allowance at the shoulder:

Placing the ice blue silk lining and catch-stitching it over the front coat facing, note pins in place to catch-stitch the sleeve lining in place:

The finished coat with removable collar in (before removing basting stitches):

The finished coat back with lacing detail (how-to is posted below):

Creating lacing channels by stitching the ends of 1" silk double-side satin ribbon together, then turning and pressing:
Placing each channel along the inside of each pleat on either side of the coat center back:
Hand-tacking the channel at intervals between which ribbon will be laced:

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Make it with Wool 2014 - Part 3

Because I opted not to sew this dress as originally prescribed with lapped seams and because I left the sheer bodice front scarf inset un-lined, I under-stitched the side front lining part way where it joins the front-scarf insert.  This was to ensure that no part of the side front lining would roll out underneath the sheer front and cause an undesired line (click images for larger views):

As shown on the inside of the fabric dress, the shoulder seam allowances of the bodice and bodice lining appear diagonally converging into the bodice front scarf inset/side front seam and hand-basting is still in place (far left in photo is the left dart at the back of the neck).  Note the lining is as of yet left free below the square symbol in the bodice side front:

Shows the line of under-stitching as applies to outside of finished dress:

A photo of the final dress at this year's Arizona Make it with Wool.  I took first place (more photos to come):

As for the coat, these first images demonstrate the treatment I gave each seam allowance as you can see in the lower edge of the under sleeve piece, this wool ravels so much!

I went back to the Design Plus trick, but this time using it to dissuade raveling by fusing it over the stitching lines of each coat piece.  The coat front (this and the upper sleeve shot gives a good indication of the translucent open parts of the weave).  White tailor tacks indicate button/loop placement and match points:

The upper sleeve (white tailor tacks indicate match points, red tacks indicate dart meet points.):

Under arm curve of the under sleeve, you get the idea:

Photo gives the effect of having joined seams with the Design Plus tape in the stitching on the wrong side of fabric:

I also used this method in places where the cut edge of a piece lay on an open part of the jacquard weave.  Here, an edge of the front facing getting that reinforcement over a small patch before placing rayon seam binding along the straight edge to keep the facing from drawing up when sewn to the coat:

Next post will cover the assembled coat in which I will insert channels for boning the back pleats for ribbon lacing and creating/inserting sleeve stiffening before the lining is placed.

Friday, October 31, 2014

Latest Multi-Size Pattern, the 1947 McCall Two-Piece Suit

Originally by McCall, this two-piece suit is now in multiple sizes for 32 to 46 bust:

The five-piece skirt is split at the hem in front.  The New Look influence is apparent in the princess-seam jacket for its unique button-trimmed peplum front.
As a construction note on the inside corner of the jacket peplum inset, I recommend making use of the small facing technique I advised for turning corners that are lapped or top-stitched as demonstrated here on a godet:

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Finishing waistband on the 1929 skirt, patterns SE20-5955/B20-5955

This summer, I worked with my skirt project from the 1929 Ensemble pattern.

The details originally included with the pattern do not lend much insight, so I am sharing my way of going about it in photos below.
I sewed the skirt in chocolate wool crepe and lined it in silk habotai.  The first photo demonstrates placing the front and back facings for the left side opening which I cut from the lining fabric.  This step is straight from the original instruction (click images for larger views):

Please note that I deviated from the original construction advice for this skirt by joining all the skirt seams in the regular manner, that is, I did not use lapped seam construction.  It is my way of keeping the finish of the skirt really clean.
That said, the next step will be easier on a skirt with the seams joined in the plain manner, not lapped.
For the curved tab ends of the front and back yokes, I cut small facings from the according portion of each yoke pattern using the lining fabric once again.  I made use of the selvedge so as to avoid having to turn that inner edge under, thus creating more bulk:

The front yoke facing pinned into place (with facing for front closing un-pinned enough to get yoke facing stitched in).  I stopped sewing the seam between the front yoke and skirt front 3/8" from the edge just below the curved part of the front yoke.  This allows me to use 3/8" seam allowance when sewing the small facing to all corresponding edges with the yoke front:

A view of clipping to join the small back yoke facing at right side of skirt:

Everything on the inside of the skirt will be covered when the small facing is turned inward (side closure front binding shown turned and stitched into place):

Alternately, if you are lapping the skirt seams together, when clipping, you will want to ensure that the lapped seam stitching is backed away from raw edges enough that when you clip into the skirt to join these additional facings, none of your top-stitching will be compromised.

I created the waistband using dyed grosgrain ribbon with ribbon seam binding per original instructions.  A view of the waistband as it is turned and slip-stitched inside the skirt:

...and a view of the waistband in place: