Sunday, August 21, 2016

EvaDress Pattern Challenge - Flirty 50's!


Something about 50's styles seems oh, so flirty! Bare shoulders with a halter or even strapless style, sashes, full skirts or hip-hugging drapes and even the men's dashing cut of a waistcoat. This is a sewing pattern challenge to create men’s or women’s garments from 1950’s EvaDress patterns. Accessories (hats, bags, etc.) are not counted as an individual project, but may accompany garments in a submission. Participants may each enter more than one project for this challenge.

Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on September 15, 2016 although muslins for fitting may be created any time before the challenge kick-off date. No purchase necessary to enter, so 1950's EvaDress patterns from stash may be used! The closing date to submit projects for this challenge is 11:59p.m. EST on November 15, 2016.

The more complicated the project, the higher the consideration for placing as a finalist.

Depending on the number of entries, a few finalists will be selected based on quality of construction (construction detail shots are a must), accuracy to the challenge guidelines and overall design with projects remaining devout to the original pattern style lines.
One top finalist will receive a $100 non-expiring gift certificate good toward the total purchase (with tax and/or shipping) of original, reproduction or multi-size patterns from EvaDress Patterns.
Once again, Emily Stringham of Emily's Vintage Visions will join the challenge as a guest juror!

Projects submitted to other challenges are welcome, provided they fit into the challenge parameters and time frame stated here. I encourage you to join my challenge group on FaceBook in order to submit your project for consideration. The top finalist will be notified on the event wall by 11:59p.m., November 18, 2016.
Log on to Facebook.com and I encourage you to join my challenge group on FaceBook in order to submit your project for consideration.

NOTE: By entering this challenge you agree that your submission photos/descriptions may be used in the gallery on the EvaDress web site as promotional material for EvaDress.

Once you are a part of the group, you can enter here and post your main photo on the page. Add subsequent high quality project photos (longest edge of photo to be 11” and at least 150dpi) including front, back, side views and construction/design details in the comments section under the main photo. Be sure to write what pattern you used and what is so flirty about the design! If you do not use Facebook, I am happy to post your submission via your e-mail containing photos and description as outlined above.

Feel free to e-mail me with questions. Questions may also be posted here, on my Facebook (EvaDress Patterns) wall or posted by commenting on my blogspot.
This challenge is void where prohibited.

Sunday, April 24, 2016

Apr. 18 - Apr. 22, The Week in Patterning 18

It's been a whirlwind week around here.
First, in sewing from EvaDress Patterns news, the 1935 summer dress continued as I completed bound buttonhole facings. A quick product plug here: I show one of the back facing seam allowances 'taped' with deni fuse sheer interfacing by Gail Patrice. The interfacing comes pre-cut 3-yards long at 60" wide in black or white. I created my own straight 3/8" stay tape from my white deni fuse in order to stabilize the back edges of the dress.

You also see how the belt is attached to the dress. In lieu of cutting a fabric belt, I chose double-face silk satin ribbon which I will likely tie at center front. The belt attachment is unique and I think throws some sewers. Each end of the belt is sewn into the facing/back edge of both right and left sides, yet the right belt section threads through a vertical buttonhole created in the back left side. The belt from the right back side is also folded away from the back edge and top-stitched along its center (not yet done in photo) for about an inch in order to accommodate the way the back left side laps the back right side:


Lastly, I will launch my new web site the end of this coming week-yay! The site will have features everyone expects in search capabilities and multiple payment methods. This also means by May 8, you will see my blog post entries from the new web site homepage (as indicated below, can't miss that BIG red arrow)! I am not sure yet how I will handle all the entries I have made to date from this address, but when I have that figured, I will fill you in.
...and I am still wearing my kitchen apron from dinner prep!

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Apr. 11 - Apr. 15, The Week in Patterning 17

Well, I haven't been sewing laps in the studio, but I have been sewing lappets! Not unlike little flower petals, these lappets stand along the neck opening on the 1869 bustle dress.
Once pinked, they are a finishing touch on the waist of this ensemble. You see a quick remedy I put into the front neckline as I forgot to pinch out extra length in my pattern before cutting the waist front to prevent gaping.
You can do this with many V-neck garments before finishing. I eased 5/8" of length out of each side of the front neckline by cutting a narrow piece of twill tape 6-3/8" long. Leaving the lappets pinned on, I eased the entire 7" length of neckline down to the twill which will then be stitched in place when I attach the finishing bias facing strip:


As in the board below, hand-drafting continues through tomorrow. Last week, I addressed a particularly damaged pattern to bring it up to snuff for multi-sizing. It is the front section for the cropped halter in the Advance pattern below (View 1):

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Apr. 4 - Apr. 8, The Week in Patterning 16

Been hand drafting originals this week. Namely, this sarong and jacket pattern and a DuBarry blouse and skirt. Both patterns were sent in by customers wishing to have these styles in their sizes and so the patterns may also be available from my collection in multi-size. The red arrow in next to last photo points to the location of one of the (faintly showing) perforations indicating where an elbow dart is made in the blouse 3/4-length sleeve:





As shown in the last image above, I have an unusually crumpled pattern in the next set I am drafting for this Advance tops pattern:

Sunday, April 3, 2016

Mar. 28 - Apr. 1, The Week in Patterning 15

This board highlights bound buttonhole details I put to use on my 1935 Beach Dress:


I outlined my photos with text and illustrations from Dressmaking Made Easy, by The McCall Pattern Company, 1946. I have a couple additional tips I recommend when working with the binding of each buttonhole you are welcome to access via pdf here.  Click image to get larger views:

More 40's and 50's multi-size patterns are yet on their way this year to include these two! My work continued on each this week, expecting to have the 50's halter/bodice pattern tested and ready to go by April's end. It will be some time before I have the junior size blouses pattern tested out and ready for issue, but I will announce here:



This week's work will involve hand-drafting more originals to add to my multi-size line later this and into next year. As well, you get the hint by now that my work is not linear as I must toggle between different projects. Expect to see more progress on my 1869 sheer dress and the 1935 beach dress!

Saturday, March 26, 2016

Mar. 21 - Mar. 25, The Week in Patterning 14

I went into the fray with the 1869 bustle dress I showed a little of last week. This time, you get a bigger picture as to where some of these smaller pinked details go. I agitate the edges of the pinking to give a slightly frayed effect as on some extant gowns of the time. The idea is keeping this ensemble clean with simple embellishment.



Part of the magic in my work is making great leaps through time in an instant! We hop 78 years later to 1947 when Butterick originally issued this hood pattern which I now have in original size 36-38" bust and for 22" head size. I will take it to multiple sizes if there is interest, so let me know! .

Sunday, March 20, 2016

Mar. 14 - Mar. 18, The Week in Patterning 13!

It's been a week mad with plaid as the 'bunny runway dress' (1869 bustle dress) continues in a light cotton shirting. To see why it is the bunny runway dress, look back at my week 2 post here!

I used the skirt yoke parts of a 1930's pattern to create the top portion of my Civil War-time (Pendleton) wool petticoat which lead to some matching plaid for a little somebun I know named Flat Fred!
Flat Fred was made by Flat Bonnie.com and he is the mascot for a rabbit rescue called Tranquility Trails Animal Sanctuary in the Scottsdale area of Phoenix. If you have been very lucky, you may have met Fred on one of his travels as he gets around to educate people about the wonderful world of rabbits and the responsible care they require.
I patterned a couple accessories for him earlier this year and I quickly fashioned a kilt for him to wear on his trip to Scotland this summer! I call this pattern the clan carrot tartan ; )

Also in plaid news, I confirmed I have just enough of the woven plaid (bottom image) from which to cut the shorter length of the 1929 coat. I didn't get to sew on it this weekend as planned, but you will start seeing that progress unfold in the next boards:


Also...my Fitting 40's Pattern Challenge (details, here) kicks off tomorrow, March 21!