Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Finishing waistband on the 1929 skirt, patterns SE20-5955/B20-5955

This summer, I worked with my skirt project from the 1929 Ensemble pattern.

The details originally included with the pattern do not lend much insight, so I am sharing my way of going about it in photos below.
I sewed the skirt in chocolate wool crepe and lined it in silk habotai.  The first photo demonstrates placing the front and back facings for the left side opening which I cut from the lining fabric.  This step is straight from the original instruction (click images for larger views):

Please note that I deviated from the original construction advice for this skirt by joining all the skirt seams in the regular manner, that is, I did not use lapped seam construction.  It is my way of keeping the finish of the skirt really clean.
That said, the next step will be easier on a skirt with the seams joined in the plain manner, not lapped.
For the curved tab ends of the front and back yokes, I cut small facings from the according portion of each yoke pattern using the lining fabric once again.  I made use of the selvedge so as to avoid having to turn that inner edge under, thus creating more bulk:

The front yoke facing pinned into place (with facing for front closing un-pinned enough to get yoke facing stitched in).  I stopped sewing the seam between the front yoke and skirt front 3/8" from the edge just below the curved part of the front yoke.  This allows me to use 3/8" seam allowance when sewing the small facing to all corresponding edges with the yoke front:

A view of clipping to join the small back yoke facing at right side of skirt:

Everything on the inside of the skirt will be covered when the small facing is turned inward (side closure front binding shown turned and stitched into place):

Alternately, if you are lapping the skirt seams together, when clipping, you will want to ensure that the lapped seam stitching is backed away from raw edges enough that when you clip into the skirt to join these additional facings, none of your top-stitching will be compromised.

I created the waistband using dyed grosgrain ribbon with ribbon seam binding per original instructions.  A view of the waistband as it is turned and slip-stitched inside the skirt:

...and a view of the waistband in place:

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