Saturday, November 2, 2013

1929 Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets: Stitch the Godets on and Trimming the Scarf Collar

Per the previous post about sewing this coat, I emphasized the process of facing the top edge of each godet to ready them for stitching to the coat.  Here, you see I am stitching the godet with the top edges turned in with the organza facing (click on images for a larger view:

After getting that seam in, I then clipped into the godet seam allowance just below my organza facing and stitched the top godet edges in place by hand.  this is better illustrated in the process for the lining godets, see November 17 post above.

When I turn the godet to stitch other side down the godet opening, I clipped into the seam allowance at an angle to fit the machine as far up as possible (not shown).
The free section of the top edge on the godet is to be invisibly hand-tacked to the coat, making sure to catch each folded corner of the top in.

When it came to cutting the faux fur trim for my scarf collar, I opted to cut it in one piece which would wrap over the top seam of the scarf rather than be sewn into that seam to reduce lines and bulk.  The advantage in this is also in cases where real fur pelt is used to reduce stitching and piecing.  Notice I faced the faux fur trim along the inside vertical edge only.  It is then turned right side out and with raw edges matching, hand basted to the fur layer (click image for a larger view):

I then hand basted the faced trim to the right side of the scarf so its edges will be caught in with the stitching of the scarf ends (click image for a larger view:

Alternately, the fur trim could be cut and seamed into the scarf (having cut the scarf fabric away with seam allowances included), but I like the idea of having the wool behind the trim for weight.  It swings round so well!

No comments: