1929 Coat with Pin Tucks and Godets: Sewing Godets

I have all my loose threads secured onto the wrong side of each coat piece.  So before I stitch the coat seams together, I will put the godets on first.
I applied a stay as a technique I like to use when sewing fabric with a turned corner  I also use this method when stitching a lapped seam onto another fabric.  I prefer to use silk organza as it compacts so well when folded and pressed.  It really makes for a clean and non-bulky application.

I cut a piece of scrap organza to fit over the points at the top of each godet (click image for a larger view):


I turned my machine stitch length down 10 per inch so the stitches will be fine enough to make the inside corner secure and crisp.  Using the seam allowance given (1/2"), stitch the organza to the right side of the godet along the top edge where the top corners of the godet will be sewn to the coat.  I did the stitches in scrap thread of different colors so they show up easily (click image for a larger view):


Clip through both layers to the inside corner at marking, trim near seam allowance, turn and press the seam allowances toward the organza facing (click image for a larger view):

Shows the organza facing turned and pressed to the wrong side of godet (click image for a larger view):

Shows the organza facing turned and pressed from the right side of godet (click image for a larger view):


The godets are now ready to be stitched to the coat!

Detail of making small stitches at the top of the godet where the edge is made with the organza facing. Be sure to catch the godet only in the organza side of the seam taking care not to grab the wool side.(click image for a larger view):