Saturday, January 19, 2008

Grading the Raglan Sleeve

Elle requested that I share the process of grading the raglan sleeve down in size on pattern B30-4851


so here is...

Taking the raglan sleeve in is quite simple since there is normally a dart at the shoulder line rather than the traditional sleeve seam in the top of this sleeve style.



I simply shorten the length of this dart by cutting through a horizontal line I draft on the pattern between the middle set of perforations and the single perforation. I take it in 1/4" for each size down I wish to take the pattern as indicated here:



This pattern is unique in that it has a raglan sleeve that does not extend all the way to the neckline, so there is a bit of standard shoulder length to consider. If the adjustment above is not enough for the desired effect, one can also draft a vertical line from the shoulder seam to the bustline and cut along this line, taking it in 1/4" at the shoulder seam end to nothing at the bustline for each size the pattern is to be brought down:


3 comments:

D4N13L3 said...

VERY GOOD WORKS!
I LIKE YOUR STYLE ;-)

Elle said...

This is it? Holy cow, I can do that! You know that this pattern has been one of my favorites ever since I saw it, but my grading skills are quite simplistic and typically involve going up 1 skirt size. Thanks for the clear instructions on how to grade this pattern to fit me. It is mine, mine, mine, mine, mine.

Elle

P.S. Your instructions on how to make the swing jacket fit me also worked beautifully.

Xan said...

I am really glad to know that swing jacket went well for you. I hope to cut into mine next week!!!