Sunday, June 27, 2010

Contemporary Vintage

I have been meaning to blog about this for some time now, but didn't put all of my work down to do so!

The September 2009 Vogue issue caught my eye for the spread of designer-wear inspired by lines in the clothing of 1942. I found this spread validating from the standpoint of reinforcing good, vintage details in contemporary wear.

I like that the basic lines of the jackets are so easy to see in the garments as compared to the two pattern fronts below. The soft details the designers added look easy to add for nice embellishment.






Although, I ponder, why are the designers taking after 1942 here? The spread lends no indication as to the significance of that...

Friday, June 4, 2010

Pattern Sizes - Vintage vs. Contemporary

A really good suggestion was brought to me during my lecture on vintage patterns last night at Treadle Yard Goods.

Edith Gazzuolo suggested I include a chart on my web site for comparison between vintage pattern and contemporary pattern sizing standards.

I hope it will reduce confusion when choosing vintage patterns for those who are only familiar with contemporary patterns.

A brief example would be to say that a vintage size 18 pattern closest corresponds with a contemporary pattern size 14 to fit a 36" bust, although the remaining dimensions vary between the waist and hip. When comparing vintage and contemporary pattern standards, I recommend purchasing a vintage pattern as close to the bust size as possible since the remaining adjustments will be less difficult.

Until I can post this information on the site, I have included it here:

Women's Vintage Patterns pre-1958
(hip measurement is taken 7" below the natural waistline)

size 12=30" bust, 25-26" waist, 33" hip
size 14=32" bust, 26" waist, 35" hip
size 16=34" bust, 28" waist, 37" hip
size 18=36" bust, 30" waist, 39" hip
size 20=38" bust, 32" waist, 41" hip
size 40=40" bust, 34" waist, 43" hip
size 42=42" bust, 36" waist, 45" hip
size 44=44" bust, 38" waist, 47-1/2" hip
size 46=46" bust, 40" waist, 50" hip
size 48=48" bust, 42" waist, 53" hip


Misses's Contemporary Patterns according to Vogue Patterns
(hip measurement is taken 7-9" or, at fullest part of the body below natural waistline)
NOTE: Size '8' has been ommitted due to the fact that there is no women's vintage size to correspond with a 31-1/2" bust. Such sizes were issued as a junior standard in the vintage pattern realm, not a women's standard.

size 6=30-1/2" bust, 23" waist, 32-1/2" hip
size 8=(see note above)
size 10=32-1/2" bust, 25" waist, 34-1/2" hip
size 12=34" bust, 26-1/2" waist, 36" hip
size 14=36" bust, 28" waist, 38" hip
size 16=38" bust, 30" waist, 40" hip
size 18=40" bust, 32" waist, 42" hip
size 20=42" bust, 34" waist, 44" hip
size 22=44" bust, 37" waist, 46" hip
size 24=46" bust, 39" waist, 48" hip
size 26=48" bust, 41-1/2" waist, 50" hip